TOM'S HOME PAGE SOUTH AFRICA Sept/Oct 2008 OAXACA March 2009 NORTHERN ECUADOR Feb 2009 SOUTHERN ECUADOR Jan 2009
(below are some photo highlights from the tour)
Zulu village, Wakkerstroom grasslands |
Leopard in Tshukudu |
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Wild Dog in Kruger National Park |
Malachite Sunbird male in proteas |
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Giant Kingfishers in Kruger National Park |
Steinbuck in Kruger National Park |
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Stonechat male |
Spotted Prinia in Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens |
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Black-bellied Korhaan male Tanqua Karoo |
Greater Flamingo flock in Cape Town |
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Leaders:
Tom Hince, Lily Shuster, Keith Barnes
Local guides:
Lucky Nwenga (Wakkerstroom), Bheki Nyandeni (Mkuzi area), Stephen, Robin and Steven (Sani Pass), David Nikosi (Cape area).
Species List:
A complete list of birds and mammals observed in the trip is available as a separate Microsoft Excel file (spreadsheet). Please email me at peleetom@netcore.ca if you would like this.
Participants:
MaryAnn and Jerry Ruthruff, Stephanie Dosch, Gene and Charlene Denzel, Elias and Jill Hanna, Rolf and Gail Bergeler.
This eighteen night, nineteen day trip was inspired by Jerry Ruthruff. His concept of ‘wildlife and wine’ proved to be a great success and we all owe him a vote of thanks. If there is one regret from the trip it is that the leader did not keep a wine checklist! We had some fabulous wines and some great meals in addition to the many natural memories. And what memories they were. With a trip list of 413 birds and 53 mammals the trip was a great success. Lily and I look forward to traveling with you in the near future and thank you for sharing this great experience.
Although most of the participants had arrived a few days early, today was the first official day of the tour. The group gathered in the lobby of the Hotel Indaba in the suburb of Sandton in north Johannesburg shortly after sunset. After introductions, we enjoyed several of the first of many (!) good bottles of wine. We sat outside and chatted for some time before moving inside to the hotel restaurant where most of the group enjoyed the extensive hotel buffet dinner. Tom sketched out the plans for the next few days including an early start the following morning.
Today we made the long drive and transfer from Johannesburg to Tshukudu private game lodge. We met at the two combi 8 passenger vans at 6 am and were soon loaded up with lots of room. These were full size vans with lots of luggage room and head clearance. After a slight delay in receiving our box breakfasts we were on our way. After about an hour of fighting busy morning traffic we cleared Pretoria and were soon making good time towards the mist best forest. A bathroom break at a service stop on the N1 brought a small sample of the birds to come. Here we added Rock Martin, Kurrichane Thrush on the lawns, and a nice male Southern Masked Weaver.
We turned off on the R71 towards Tzaneen stopping briefly at a waterhole to view some spoonbills. Tom and Lily both noted that despite the apparent poverty there were an enormous number of new housing projects in many rural areas. Just past the shrine of Moria, Lily’s van began to have clutch problems. Eventually it seized up completely and we had to pull off the road and call Budget rent a car. Fortunately Tom and Jerry had both rented cell phones and we were able to get ahold of the rental company. Despite the apparent remoteness of the site, we were able to get a replacement van within about two hours. In the meantime the group meandered around the roadside picking up a number of new birds including a Blue Waxbill found by Gene, plus Blue-eared Starling in the scope and an active colony of White-browed Sparrow Weavers.
The two hour delay meant we only had limited time in the mist belt forest. Here we had a late picnic lunch. Jill spotted our first Long-crested Eagle, a great sight perched on the high pine covered slopes. Driving a short distance through the forest added several Knysna Louries, the rare Black-fronted Bush Shrike, Marico Sunbird, African Crowned Eagle soaring overhead, and several Cape Canaries. We descended into the lowlands and made our way to Tshukudu arriving around 4pm.
After settling into our cabins and having a drink, we soon boarded two large open trucks for a late afternoon and early evening game drive. One of the highlights of the several species of game seen was a mother and baby Elephant which were remarkably tame. The baby terrorized Jill and others with his inquisitive trunk! At dusk we stopped at a waterhole for sundowners and then went on a night drive before dinner. The clear highlight of the nightdrive was a superb close view of a male and female lion. The female which was in heat was on the adjacent property. The male was following her every move and seemed oblivious to us. We returned to the lodge where we enjoyed a wonderful dinner in an outdoor boma next to a roaring fire. Overhead the African skies provided a magnificent backdrop.
This morning the staff went room to room to give everyone a 6 am wake up call. Outside our cabins we found the resident Cheetah named Savannah. After coffee and tea at 6:30 am we headed out on a morning game drive. A close encounter with a mother and baby White Rhino was a big highlight. One guide (James) described the difference between male as female rhinos as ‘the male has only one large dangly bit and the female has two dangly bits". Other highlights of the morning included a pair of Pearl-spotted Owlets (seen), and nice views of Leopards in their breeding cages. When we returned to the lodge for a late breakfast we enjoyed dozens of Red-billed Hornbills, Red-billed Buffalo Weavers, Crested Barbets, Grey-headed Sparrows, bulbuls, Magpie Shrikes, and a single male Cut-throat Finch at the lodge feeders. We packed up and departed Tshukudu after lunch.
After leaving Tshukudu we drove north to town of Phalawarba, on the western edge of Kruger National Park. Here we gassed up and got drinks and some supplies before entering the park. The entrance process was slow and cumbersome and clearly designed to give lots of people employment. We drove through the park in late afternoon heading steadily towards our destination of Letaba Camp. Highlights of the drive included a flock of finches which included several Violet-eared Waxbills, and a Temminck’s Courser by the roadside.
We pulled into Letaba at 5:30 pm and everyone got settled into their cabins. We headed down to the river for a drink at sunset and then washed up before dinner at the lodge restaurant. After dinner we took a short night hike around the camp. Just outside the perimeter fence we got a close view of a Hyaena walking along the perimeter fence by the river. We heard many and saw at least two Scops Owls around the camp as well.
We met this morning at 6 am for a pre breakfast walk around the camp (Lily opted to sleep in). Heading down to the river we found a multitude of birds. One of the big highlights was scope views of at least 7 African Painted Snipes. Other good birds included Goliath Heron, Giant Kingfisher, a pair of Marabou Storks, Kittlitz’s Plovers, Natal Robin, and a male Red-headed Weaver building a nest. In addition we found many Bushbucks on the grounds and a number of Waterbucks along the river.
After a wonderful morning walk we stopped at the restaurant overlooking the river and had a leisurely breakfast (Lily joined us here). After this we loaded into the vans and drove along the Oliphants River. Highlights of the drive included great close ups of Elephants, a number of Black Crakes and one African Rail, Squacco Heron, an African Fish Eagle perched close and African Firefinch. Lily’s vehicle woes continued when she got stuck in the sand at one of the river overlooks. Despite park policy the guys all bailed out and Tom jumped behind the wheel. After some effort and Tom nearly burning out the clutch (we would find out how nearly later) we eventually got the second van underway.
By the time we arrived at Oliphants Camp, it was early afternoon and getting quite hot. At the cliff overlooking the river below we enjoyed the shaded benches and a cold drink. We spent a relaxing hour scanning with the scope adding several Saddle-billed Storks, Goliath Heron, a number of vultures, and a large number of sleeping Hippopotami. We returned to Letaba at 2pm and everyone had the rest of the afternoon free to relax and catch up on laundry.
At 6 pm we met to go on a bush braais with a national park ranger. First we took a short night drive and then we meandered through a small bush trail before arriving at the site of our dinner. Here we found a magnificent set up for our meal complete with roaring fire, an outdoor bar, a barbecue loaded with sausage, chicken and other goodies, and a magnificent sky. This was certainly one of the most memorable experiences of our stay. After dinner we returned to camp by 9 pm.
An early start today with everyone having coffee and packed up and in the vans by 6 am. We checked out of Letaba this morning and made our way south across Kruger all the way to Pretoriuskop. As we headed south, we spotted several groups of the bizarre and scarce Ground Hornbill, including one small family of three that were frolicking in a tree showing off their huge white wing patches. Another good sighting was a close Gray-hooded Bush Shrike which provided superb close looks.
We made a stop at the Oliphants river crossing, which is one of the few places we could exit the vans. Here we spent quite a while in the early morning light adding Goliath Heron, several extremely close Yellow-billed Kites, a Malachite Kingfisher, a White-crowned Lapwing chasing a kite, and a Hammerkop in flight (spotted by Stephanie). After this we spent some time searching in vain for a bathroom and eventually made a makeshift roadside stop.
At Satara we stopped to late morning for a sit down breakfast. Right by the parking lot we had superb views of a sleepy Scops Owl just ten feet up in a tree. The camp was full of birds and we tallied several new species for the trip including the scarce Bennett’s Woodpecker and our best views of Hoopoe and Groundscraper Thrush.
Making our way south we encountered a large burn and this had attracted several hundred Chestnut-backed Sparrow Larks and several pairs of Temminck’s Coursers. We had superb views of both. Circling vultures alerted us to a nearby kill and some folks were able to see another Hyaena running off the kill with a large chunk of meat. For most of todays drive we saw lots of lots of game dominated by Impalas, Zebras, Giraffes and Wildabeest. Farther down the road a major jam of vehicles signaled the presence of a small group of lions including three females and one male sleeping by a water hole. After some jockeying we were able to get our turn in the best spot for a view of these great predators. Another classic African moment was a Giraffe drinking at a waterhole.
Today was also a great day for raptors. During the drive we had good views of a perched adult Dark Chanting Goshawk, a Wahlberg’s Eagle collecting twigs for its nest, Tawny Eagle, Brown Snake Eagles, African Fish Eagles and many kites and vultures. Another good bird today was Purple Roller.
At Skukuza camp we made a brief bathroom break and took a short walk around the camp. Gail spotted a large number of fruit bats with distinctive white spots by their eyes (roosting in the camp picnic shelters). Continuing on towards our camp we added the fourth of the Big Five for the day -a Black Rhino. Athough White Rhino is more frequently seen, it is not officially regarded as one of the Big Five, simply because it is not considered dangerous. The Black Rhino is more of a woodland species and highly unpredictable and bad tempered.
We arrived at Pretoriuskop in late afternoon. Although Tom and booked and paid for a night drive for everyone, only Stephanie and Elias opted to take the drive. The rest of the crew stayed at the camp and enjoyed wine... lots of wine! In fact, we polished off no fewer than 7 bottles and some nice snacks. It was a great way to spend an evening. In addition, we watched a Barn Owl head out to hunt at dusk and there were a number of Purple-crested Louries on the grounds of our accommodations.
As it turned out, everyone was happy with their choice. When Stephanie and Elias returned they told of their great adventure. They had sealed the deal and added a great sighting of a Leopard stalking an Impala for half an hour to get their 5th and final member of the Big Five - and all in one day!
At 6 am we met for coffee and a walk around the camp grounds. Highlights included Purple-crested Lourie, great looks at Lemon-rumped and Yellow-fronted Tinket Barbets plus Crested and Collared Barbets and two groups of Dwarf Mongoose. We also heard more Bleating Warblers but they remained elusive. Shortly after 8 am we headed to the restaurant for a buffet breakfast.
As we left Kruger we again encountered the permit silliness. This meant another fifteen minute wait just to drop off the permits and check out. Surely there is an easier way to provide employment for people!
From here we continued west and south towards our destination of Wakkerstroom. We made good time until we reached the small town of Carolina. Here Lily again had clutch problems with the combi van and we decided to resolve them before moving on. This time Budget did not have a combi available and after some discussion the best we could do was a four door sedan suitable for only four passengers. Despite the remoteness of Carolina, again we got a replacement vehicle sent to us within a few hours. In the meantime, most of the participants found a variety of options for lunch. Some opted for Whimpeys while others shopped for snacks at a nearby supermarket.
By 3pm we were underway again and heading south through the grasslands towards Amersfoort. In late afternoon we spotted two Marsh Owls hunting over an open field. Pulling over we managed to get great scope views of these gorgeous owls. Just south of Amersfoort we turned onto a bumpy gravel road which would lead us to Wakkerstroom. The drive along this road was productive adding two Blue Korhaans (a local specialty). The early evening light was gorgeous on the highveld hillsides and grasslands. Entering Wakkerstroom at dusk we managed to floodlight a Cape Eagle Owl sitting atop a telephone pole.
The group was split between two accommodations with two couples staying at Toad Hall and the balance at Wakkerstroom Country Inn. After everyone had a chance to freshen up we had a great dinner together at the Inn complete with roaring fire and, of course - more wine!
We met our local Zulu guide Lucky Nwenga at 6:30 am this morning at the Wakkerstroom Country Inn. After some brief introductions we were on our way heading east on Hwy 543 to search for Barrow’s Korhaan. We drove through some gorgeous high grassland and small mountain villages making brief stops for Bokmakerie (an endemic bush shrike) and perched Jackal Buzzard. A few participants got brief views of a pair of Red-necked Wrynecks. When we reached the best korhaan habitat Lucky and Tom scanned intently but none were to be seen. We cracked the box breakfasts and enjoyed a snack in the cool clear morning air before continuing on. Finally Lucky spotted a pair of Barrow’s Korhaans close by and we all got excellent looks on the ground and in flight.
Returning to Wakkerstroom mid morning we stopped at the wetland just west of town. This site added many new birds including Hottentot and Red-billed Teals, Southern Pochard, Lesser Swamp Warbler, African Reed Warblers, African Snipe, and Malachite Kingfisher (point blank views in the scope). Returning to our hotels, we took a break from 11:30 am until 1:30 pm so the group had time to walk around this quaint little town and do some shopping.
At 1:30 pm we headed west towards Amersfoort road. Our first stop was about a half hour away and here we walked through some short grassy areas in pursuit of several of the endemic larks found here. After some initial frustration, we finally got good views (including scope views) of Spike-heeled, Pink-billed, Eastern Clapper and Red-capped Larks plus a pair of Common Quail flushed in the field. We made a long loop back towards town spotting several Ground Woodpeckers (scope views were great), a wonderful close perched Lanner Falcon right beside the road and several Mountain Reedbucks.
In late afternoon Lucky took us to a site to look for cranes and we were able to find several Crowned Cranes feeding nearby. Eventually we reached another grassland site to search for another suite of larks. A short walk here in very short grass produced Rudd’s and Botha’s Larks and eventually Yellow-breasted Pipit and a great group of four Blue Korhaans in a field with short green grass.
We returned to Wakkerstroom shortly before 6pm and Lucky was able join us for dinner this evening. Afterwards Tom drove him back to his home outside of town.
At 6 am we met at the van and car and packed up for the drive to Muzi pan. It was a beautiful clear morning and Stephanie spotted a nice close group of Crowned Cranes beside the road. At Piet Retief we stopped to gas and up have a restroom break, and also enjoyed a breakfast snack. The main road east was mostly free of traffic because it was Sunday morning and we made good time, arriving in Mkuze village shortly before 9 am.
Tom had trouble finding the center where we were supposed to meet our guide and thus began a lengthy and confusing process of trying to get directions from our guide via phone, or from any of the local residents. As it turned out the problem was that we were at Mkuze and that we were supposed to be at Muze. This minor difference is spelling meant we had to traverse Mkuzi Park and after a long trip did not arrive at the Muzi pan visitor centre until nearly 11 am instead of 9 am.
Despite the delay our guide was cheerily waiting, though now it was getting quite warm. We opted to spend the time available on a walk to search for Pel’s Fishing Owl. Bheki took us on a short drive to the forest, and enroute Lilys luck with vehicles continued as she got stuck in some deep ruts with the small sedan that Budget had sent. However with Rolf’s assistance she was soon on her way.
Upon entering the forest, our guide led us across an extremely rickety bridge (crossing it was a challenge to be sure). It was definitely not up to North American building standards! Our guide Bheki spotted a gorgeous Black-chested Snake Eagle, and then Stephanie found a perched Spotted Eagle Owl that we managed to get in the scope. We then had great views of two Trumpeter Hornbills, plus several White-eared Barbets. It turned into a real adventure as we had to cross fences, ditches and limbo under trees. For all our efforts we did get some ‘real birds’ (Jerry’s definition) and a few ticks to boot (though all were detected before they got embedded).
We dropped off Bheki at 2:15 pm without spending any time at the Muzi pan itself. However we decided to return to spend an afternoon with Bheki to catch up on this spot.
Now we made our way south to Hluhluwe village and then on to Bonamanzi game lodge arriving at around 3 pm. After showering and checking out the grounds most of the group (except Tom) took a late afternoon tour of a local Zulu village. While the consensus seemed to be that it was less than authentic, everyone seemed to enjoy the experience thoroughly. Before dinner we all met by the roaring fire as the evening cooled down quickly. After several glasses of wine we enjoyed dinner inside the lodge restaurant.
Unlike most game lodges, Bonamanzi is better for birding than big game drives. We met our guide Jerome at 6:30 am for our morning drive on the St. Lucia floodplain. We were in an open vehicle and the birding was excellent. Highlights of the drive included three species of longclaws (Yellow-throated, Cape, and the spectacular Pink-throated), Gorgeous Bushshrike (seen and heard giving its beautiful whistled song), African Goshawk and Green Pigeon. We returned to the lodge at around 10:15 am for a late and well deserved breakfast.
After breakfast most of the group took a midday break while several keeners and Tom birded the grounds near the lodge. Highlights of this walk included Bearded and Natal Scrub Robins, African Gray Flycatcher, Crowned Hornbill, Yellow Weaver, Yellow Whiteeye, Greater Honeyguide, Grey Sunbird and Terrestrial and Sombre Bulbuls.
At around 1:15 pm the long awaited replacement vehicle from Budget finally arrived. Tom had spent a lot of time berating the rental car agency for the small sedan that Lily had been driving the past four days, instead of the Combi full size van. He had no luck with getting another van (due to availability) but this time they brought a Nissan X Trail 4 by 4 which was also an automatic. Timing was good as about a half hour later we were all heading north back towards Muzi pan to meet with Bheki. On our way north we stopped to get great views of a close Lizard Buzzard right beside the road.
The drive north went well and we arrived at Muzi pan around 2:45 pm. We birded around the centre with Bheki until 4:30 pm. Highlights included Pink-backed Pelican, Ruff, Curlew and Marsh Sandpipers, Little Stint, Whiskered and White-winged Terns, Spur-winged Goose, Comb Duck, a beautiful pair of African Pygmy Geese, a Lesser Jacana with four chicks, African Marsh Harrier, Pied Avocets and Red-winged Pratincole. Most of these birds were observed at length through the scope in the great late afternoon light. We said goodbye to Bheki and returned to Bonamanzi by 5:30 pm.
At 6 pm we met Jerome for a night drive around the grounds of Bonamanzi. Highlights of the drive included point blank views of Fiery-necked and Mozambique Nightjars, several Large-spotted Genets, a Wattled Lapwing with chicks and a fair selection of mammals. We returned to the lodge at 7:30 pm for drinks and dinner.
We met this morning at 6am by the vehicles for a last early morning walk around Bonamanzi. Lily got a few extra hours of sleep while Rolf drove the x trail this morning. Highlights of the morning birding included good looks at a beautiful Orange-breasted Bush Shrike as it sang and scolded in response to Tom’s whistled imitation, and the piece de resistance - a pair of magnificent Pink-throated Twinspots as we walked downhill towards the lodge. It was a perfect ending to our stay here. We returned for a last breakfast and then checked out of the lodge by 9:15 am.
Heading south on the N1 we made a brief stop at Mtzuni to search for the palm nut vulture. We had no luck with this but decided to head down to a small park by the Indian Ocean. The group took a short walk over the high dunes for a view of the ocean. The strong winds made it a bit of a sandy experience that caused one participant to have "Texas hair". Before leaving the park we encountered some very tame zebra at close range.
As we headed south towards Durban the weather deteriorated and it became drizzly and foggy the more we headed inland. By late afternoon we reached the fog enshrouded towns of Himeville and Underberg before arriving at the Sani Pass lodge at 5 pm. This gave us a bit of time to explore the birdy grounds and find Olive Thrushes and Cape Scrub Robins.
Before dinner we met in the hotel lounge by the fire for drinks. Apparently this loosened several tongues. The combination of weariness and wine induced merriment induced the production of the infamous term "Schlong buck". Fortunately despite our efforts we never did find one of these mythical creatures. After this we retired to the restaurant for a great dinner.
This morning we managed to get the lodge to open up early for breakfast (6:30 am) so that we could get away for a long day trip up to Sani Pass and Lesotho. At 7 am our guides Stuart, Robin and Steven met us with the three four wheel drives for our trip up the mountain. Due to road conditions, only off road vehicles are able to make the trip up the pass to Lesotho. After introductions Steven physically checked every participant to make sure they had their passports.
It was a perfect morning. No wind and absolutely clear blue skies. The pass and mountain that had been invisible when we arrived yesterday were now laid out in spectacular fashion. We began a steady ascent up the long series of switchbacks. Along the way we made a number of birding stops as the various habitats. In lower elevations the highlights were Cape Grassbird, Dark-capped Yellow Warbler, Streaky-headed Canary, Cape Rock Thrush and Drakensburg Prinia. A little farther along we added Ground Woodpecker, Red-throated Wryneck, Buff-streaked Chat, Malachite Sunbird and then the endemic Gurney’s Sunbird. All of these were key targets of todays trip.
About 8 km from the actual border at the pass, we encountered and cleared South African passport control. Our guides took in the passports of their respective passengers and we were soon on our way. The drive now got much steeper and because we had most of our low to mid elevation targets we moved right up the pass. The road and ascent were breathtaking (even more so for a few who don’t particularly like heights!). Just before the pass the first jeep found an Orange-breasted Rockjumper, which moved on quickly. Fortunately the other vehicles would catch up to this species later on (or Tom would still be pouting!).
At the pass we stopped at the Lesotho passport control and took a brief tour of the shop and highest bar in Africa. This was also a welcome bathroom break for many of the group. The views here at the edge of Drakensburg ranges were amazing. Walking around the lodge there was not a high diversity of species, but most were completely new and rather striking. One mammal that was prevalent was the "Ice Rat". Unfortunately due to accents this was misinterpreted by some as "Ass Rat" and thus began another rather funny word play that would last several days.
While we took a breather at the lodge a number of White-necked Ravens soared overhead. Better still was the Cape Vulture that came nice and low and then the icing on the cake a stunning Lammergeier whose nine foot wingspan stole the show. This legendary raptor is known as the ‘bone cracker’ for its habit of dropping large bones onto rocks to get access to the marrow. As we left the lodge Robins sharp eyes spotted several Drakensburg Siskins huddling on the edge of a hut.
Driving into Lesotho was like traveling back in time. The landscape was dotted with huts and shepherds walked along the distant hillsides tending their flocks. There were few signs of the modern world. As we moved onto the mountain plateau we added more new birds. At our coffee stop a productive flock included Southern Grey Tit, Layards Tit Babbler and for some Thick-billed Lark and lots of Sentinel Rock Thrushes. Driving farther inland we added several small groups of Orange-breasted Rockjumpers and then in early afternoon arrived at our lunch stop. The site was next to a huge imposing cliff overhang where Robin had found a Lammergeier nest in 1963. The nest is still active today and while we enjoyed a superb lunch several Lammergeier came soaring in towards the nest. For most though the highlight of lunch was a shepherd seated on the hillside nearby watching his flock. As he sat he gently played a traditional musical instrument. Even a large amount of cash could not part him from that companion. Instead Elias left him his sweatshirt. This scene was certainly one of the most cherished of the trip.
One last post lunch stop at a sheep shearing shed produced Mountain Wheatear and then we made the return journey. Time was of the essence because the border post closes at 4 pm. On the way back we made a brief souvenir stop at the lodge and then began the descent down the pass. Arriving at the border post at 3:40pm we now made a few stops for francolins with one of the groups adding a Gray-winged Francolin while others added Thick-billed Lark. After a few late afternoon stops at lower elevations we arrived back at the lodge at 5 pm. It was a wonderful day with great weather and we celebrated once more with some fine wine by the fire and another good dinner.
This morning was an extra early start with everyone in the vehicles by 5:50 am with box breakfasts on board. We met Robin Guy in the nearby town of Himeville. Rolf rode up front with Robin to try and mitigate his rather erratic driving. In no time however they were off in the dust with the other vehicles desperately trying to keep up. We began searching for cranes picking up Crowned and Blue Cranes and a perched Greater Striped Swallow - a returning migrant.
After gassing up in Donnybrook we arrived at Xumeni Forest around 7:45 am. Unfortunately it was now misty and raining and cold - not the best conditions for birding. Despite this we persisted and added a few new birds including a perched Martial Eagle, Forest Canary, Bar-throated Apalis and Yellow Woodland Warbler. After coffee in the rain we walked in the forest a little more and heard but did not see, Narina Trogon, Barretts Warbler and Orange Thrush.
We said our good byes to Robin at 10 am and headed towards Durban airport arriving at 12:20 pm. Check in for our flight to Cape Town went smoothly and we were all at the gate with our boarding passes an hour early. At this point in the trip Elias was leaving the group and heading to the middle east while the rest of the group carried on to Cape Town. Our flight to Cape Town went smoothly and South African airways and we arrived in the cape at 4:05 pm.
At the airport we met our local guide for the rest of the trip, Keith Barnes. After collecting all our luggage we proceeding to the Budget rent a car to get the two combi vans. The paperwork for the combis was very slow and after inspecting the vehicles we found some serious issues. One tire was going flat and the other vehicle has a cut in a side wall. After replacing the soft tire, we got the Budget rep to commit to replacing the spares and providing us with new tires the following day. Finally at 5:35 pm we were underway arriving at the Cape Milner hotel around 6 pm. The Milner was a great little hotel which everyone seemed to love. It proved to be a great base for exploring the Cape area and the facilities and staff were excellent. After checking into our rooms we met for drinks in the hotel lounge and then ate the restaurant, where the food was excellent.
Few in the group could hardly believe that Tom had called for a 7:30 am breakfast this morning, but yes - it was true. After a leisurely breakfast at a civilized hour at the Milner the group got on their birding gear and met in the lobby at 8:30 am. Here we met Keith and David, a local guide who was the original Wakkerstroom expert. Keith had asked David to join the group for the next few days. His fine field skills and great local knowledge would make him a valuable addition.
The day started out quite wet but soon the heavy rain began to subside. By the time we reached our first stop on the slopes of Table Mountain the rain had essentially stopped and a few shafts of sunlight were beaming through the clouds. Here we had our first exposure to the fynbos floral kingdom. The proteas here were beginning to flower and this had attracted many birds. Among the species we added here were Orange-breasted Sunbird, Southern Boubou, Cape Sugarbird, Cape Canary, Swee Waxbills (on the lawn), Bully Canary and Karoo Prinia.
From here we wound our way around the Cape to the Kirstenbosch botanical gardens. These gorgeous gardens are a great mix of native and imported plants, and are impressively presented. By now the skies were sunny and clear and the gardens were at their best. Our leisurely walk produced many plants in flower. Birds seen included lots of Lesser Double-collared and Malachite Sunbirds, Karoo Prinias, a fly over African Goshawk, Ramaron (Olive) Pigeons, Forest Canaries and a single Cape Batis.
After a late lunch in the cafeteria gardens we headed east towards Strandfontein sewage ponds. Here highlights included Forest Buzzard, Black Sparrowhawk, Greater Flamingoes, White Pelican, African Sedge Warbler, Maccoa Duck, Cape Teal, Black Oystercatcher, three species of grebes, Bar-tailed Godwit, Swift Tern, Common Tern and Whimbrel.
We returned to the hotel just before 6 pm. Tonight we met in the lobby at 7:30 pm and took taxis to the waterfront. Asking the first couple we could find, we got directions to our restaurant (Baia). Unfortunately they were unable to get a reservation there so we were lucky. Our meal at Baia was great though the food took a long time to arrive. When it did the plates were magnificent, if not huge. The wines for dinner tonight were some of the best of the trip and included a magnum of the same wine served at the Captains table on the Queen Mary!
This morning we had another easier start to the day with a 7 am breakfast and an 8 am departure for a day trip up the west coast. Lily opted to stay in town and recharge. We left the Milner shortly after 8 am and encountered little traffic, making good time towards West Coast national park.
Our first stop was in the coastal scrub about 40 minutes north of the city. Here we drove a small dirt sideroad searching for korhaans. As we waited a stunning male Black Harrier flew by at close range. Certainly one of the worlds most beautiful raptors. Not long after Keith spotted a male korhaan and he and David walked out into the field to bring it into view for the group. In flight everyone got superb looks. At the same location we got brief views of Pearl-breasted Swallows in flight.
Heading farther north we took a brief bathroom break at a roadside reststop. Arriving in West Coast National Park we first birded the southern portions of the park. Highlights included another male Southern Black Korhaan (spotted by Gail) which flushed and flew into the wires (but was okay), Chestnut-vented Babbler, both Red-faced and White-backed Mousebirds, Eastern Clapper Lark (giving its remarkable display which drew WOWS from both Stephanie and Jerry), Rock Kestrel (perched near on post), Karoo Scrub Robin, Yellow Canary, Martial Eagle (juvenile being divebombed by a male Black Harrier!), Karoo Lark (displaying) and Cape Francolin. We also checked out a small boardwalk at a shorebird area adding Caspian Tern and a Yellow-rumped Widow.
After leaving the park we enjoyed lunch in Langebaan at a sidewalk café. From here we drove north to a saltworks about a half hour farther. Here a pleasant walk produced lots of flamingoes (including our first Lessers), White-fronted Plover with chicks, Chestnut-banded Plover, African Darter, Grey (Black-bellied) Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Thick-billed Larks, good views of Banded Martins and Shelducks.
Turning south we headed to a wildflower preserve on our way back to Cape Town. The small site was full of many spectacular flowers. A good pick up was a Yellow Mongoose scoped by Keith in the distance. David found us a Cloud Cistocola - whose display was much more impressive than his plumage! Here we also got views of a Thick-billed Lark in the scope.
On the way back to Cape Town we enjoyed a small group of about ten male Red Bishops busy fluffing up and displaying in a reed bed by the roadside. This led to the coining of the second best potential band name of the trip... "the buffed bishops". Top honours went to "Jason and the crombecs" from week one. Another highlight of the return trip was David giving lessons in the three basic clicks of his language - something essential to properly pronounce words like Xumeni. We arrived back at the hotel just before 6 pm and again had a great dinner at the Milner at 7 pm this evening.
David and Keith joined us again this morning for another 7 am breakfast at the Milner. We headed off on a tour of the southern Cape today departing shortly after 8 am. It was a foggy morning but it soon began to clear, revealing a stunning landscape. This change in our plans was suggested by Keith based upon his weather predictions. As it turned out he was dead on and we get exactly the conditions we needed to take full advantage of one of the worlds best scenic drives.
Winding our way south along the western Cape we made a number of stops along the road by Chapmans Peak. In addition to taking pictures and taking in the great weather and views, we did add a few birds and mammals. Highlights included several Dusky Dolphins, Rock Dassies (hyrax), and some quite distant albatrosses. Tom and David seemed to be more excited about these distant specks than the rest of the group.
At Kommetjie we scanned a small cobble edged lagoon by the sea. Here we got good scope comparisons of Bank’s, Crowned, Cape and White-breasted Cormorants, plus Swift, Common and Sandwich Terns and Black Oystercatchers. Tom and Keith managed a glimpse of a Giant Petrel as it soared by near to shore, but it soon disappeared around the point and out of view.
Continuing towards the Cape of Good Hope, we stopped at a roadside curio shop where Lily finds a hippo she wants to take home. Even she wont be able to fit that one in a bag though! The gorgeous drive adds distant views of Bontebok and for Tom’s van a mother and calf Southern Right Whale close to shore - the latter sighting making Tom rather unpopular with some members of the other van who were out of radio range. At the point we enjoy a great lunch by the sea while overlooking the ocean with the hundreds of other tourists. Rather than walking out to the overlook we opt to scan for whales near the lower road and soon have several in sight (much to Tom’s relief). As we watch the whales in the scope we see several rolling in the surf and among them an adult that appears to be partially albino with a huge patch of white skin.
Arriving at the extreme cape we take a group photo in front to cape sign. From here we head north quickly to Boulders Beach for our appointed meeting with the Jackass (African) Penguin. Here we get great views of lots of penguins at the famous Boulders colony. Nearby we seen another right whale before heading back into the city. After dropping off David in the city, we return to the Cape Milner to freshen up and pick up our luggage. Soon we say goodbye to the Milner and head out of the city towards Franshhoek. We arrive at our accommodations at the Franschhoek Country House around 5:30 pm. This hotel is simply exquisite. The grounds and rooms are wonderful and everyone enjoyed the two nights we spend here. We meet at 7:30 pm for cocktails and a wonderful dinner in the country house restaurant.
This morning started with a 7:30 am breakfast at the country inn and then meeting at the vans at 8:30 am (Lily opted out today). We made the lengthy though scenic drive south to Sir Lowrys Pass. Arriving at the pass we found cold and very windy conditions. After making the tricky crossing from the parking area to the trail, we tried to keep as sheltered as possible. The area had been recently burned and there was little in the way of mature vegetation to provide cover. Still there were quite a few nice spring flowers in bloom and we did find a small selection of birds. After some effort Keith managed to dig up several Cape Siskins and the target for the morning - the endemic Cape Rockjumper. It took some scrambling but eventually we were all able to get decent views of this bizarre species. A small family group bounded about the rocks and outcrops above us, calling infrequently. We wrapped up at Sir Lowrys pass at 12:15 pm and headed directly back to the hotel, arriving at 1:15pm.
At 1:30 pm, the entire group heads into town for some shopping among the many art and souvenir shops. It’s a trendy little place with lots of neat stuff to buy and many nice sidewalk restaurants. Shortly after 3 pm we meet back at the vans and head towards the Glenwood Estates a nearby winery for some wine tasting. We return to the hote at 5:15 pm and relax until meeting at the reception area at 7 pm for our prearranged transfer to Le Quartier Francais for our gourmand tasting menu experience. The evening is certainly a memorable one. The service is impeccable and we go through eight different courses of food and eight different paired wines. Only the hard core manage to finish all the wines. It is an experience to be sure with the food and presentation quite special. After four wonderful hours of drinking and eating we return to our hotel. Before we leave Lily considers slipping in one of those fabulous butter knives until the server notes that they sell them for 250 Rand a piece! We get back to the inn at 11:15 pm and everyone sleeps soundly tonight.
Another wonderful breakfast at the country inn with a few folks a little ‘slow’ this morning (mostly those who drank all of their wine portions!). We pack up and leave the delightful country inn at 8:15 am and drive towards Worcester stopping for gas and bathroom break and supplies in mid morning before we head into the karoo - a steppe desert that dominates much of South Africa. Fortunately we again have great weather, with beautiful clear blue skies.
En route we pick up a few good birds including a Hamerkop (for some), and Booted Eagle (all). The scenery is gorgeous as we descend into the karoo near Toews River. As the mountains open up into a vast plain we encounter a landscape coloured orange and yellow with flowers blooming after recent rains. Keith notes that we are lucky because the landscape can often be parched and barren and any rain is a good thing for flowers and birds. Highlights of the new birds include Pale Chanting Goshawks and Karoo Robins. At a small homestead we park and search for Namaqua Warbler. We hear it well but it will not pop into view. The ladies find an active Red Bishop colony while seeking relief in the nearby bushes.
A little farther along we stop at a roadside picnic area. Here we enjoy our first Fairy Flycatcher and enjoy a nice packed lunch - the highlight being the huge sweet strawberries. For the rest of the afternoon we make our way north along R355 and tehn west along the turn off road towards Ceres. Highlights of the drive include Tractrac Chat, Rufous-eared Warbler, and near a large outcrop of rocks a small party of the elusive Karoon Eremomela. All the while the dramatic landscape and plants compete for our attention. One of the best stops at a particularly rocky barren area produces Tractrac and Karoo Chats.
We stop along a gorge at another picnic area by a stream getting great views of a male and female Pririt Batis (some scope views). As we ascend the pass the grass road is new and briefly tarred for some reason. At the top Toms van gets scope views of a Black-headed Canary but the first van is out of radio range. As we approach the guest house one of the top moments of the late afternoon is a male Southern Black Korhaan on a big flat rock calling. He turns and calls loudly proclaiming his rights to this magnificent yet stark land.
A small homestead along the road seems remarkably out of place. The family asks if we are driving north. They need a ride to a town 200 km distant. We are left wondering how do they survive here and how did they end up in such an isolated spot. We emerge from the gorge to view the expanse of lowlands and river valley below. It is a stunning vista.
Arriving at Klein Cederberg in late afternoon, we check into our rooms. We are happy to see this charming guesthouse, though the kerosene space heaters are quickly moved out by nearly everyone. Most would rather be cold than suffer the fumes. The rooms and bedding are cozy but the days heat quickly leaves the rooms and the stone floors are cold. We enjoy a hearty chicken dinner beside a roaring fire and then take a chilly and unproductive night drive. When we return to the lodge the milky way overhead is spectacular.
We awoke to a beautiful but cold morning. In fact there was a heavy frost and the bird bath was frozen solid so that the Cape Canaries could not get their morning drink! Breakfast was at 7 am with lots of hot coffee and a nice cooked breakfast served by our hosts. We packed up and checked out of the inn by 8:15 am.
The morning was spent retracing our path back towards Cape Town - taking photos and watching birds along the way. The gorgeous landscape was particularly beautiful in the early morning light. Highlights of the morning drive included Verraux’s (Black) Eagles soaring along the ridge and for one van a small group of Pale-winged Starlings in flight. Stopping by the site of the previous day’s sighting we finally all get to see Black-headed Canaries and another pair of Pale Chanting Goshawks provides spectacular views.
Descending to the picnic site we head out for a memorable scramble and walk up the rocky slopes. At the top of a small gorge Keith leads us to a small site site of bushman paintings. The scenery and plants here are especially memorable. By the paintings we get great views of Cape Siskins and a brief appearance by a Dusky Sunbird. Keith leads the group on a different return route while Tom heads back to pick up his camera. The group finds a Namaqua Dove, Fairy Flycatcher, Lark-like Bunting and the scarce Cinnamon-breasted Warbler.
We continue on towards Ceres making several more stops for birds before arriving in town at 1:45 pm for a late lunch. After a break here we make a spectacular ascent of a narrow road up a nearby mountain pass and then descend into the lowlands connecting to the N1. We arrive at Cape Town around 5:15 pm and again check in to the Cape Milner. At 7:30 pm Keith and David and Jill’s friend Joan join us for a final dinner together at the Milner restaurant. It is a last wonderful evening together with lots of great food, wine and conversation!
Most of the group (with Lily and Stephanie sleeping a little late) got together one last time for a 7 am final breakfast together. We shared some memories one last time and then say our goodbyes until the next great adventure!
TOM'S HOME PAGE SOUTH AFRICA Sept/Oct 2008 OAXACA March 2009 NORTHERN ECUADOR Feb 2009 SOUTHERN ECUADOR Jan 2009
