TOM'S HOME PAGE SOUTH AFRICA Sept/Oct 2008 OAXACA March 2009 NORTHERN ECUADOR Feb 2009 SOUTHERN ECUADOR Jan 2009
(below are some photo highlights - including a number of images by Paul D. Pratt - many thanks Paul!)
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Giant Antpitta (better known as 'Maria') at Angel Paz |
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta at San Isidro lodge |
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Masked Flowerpiercer at Yanacocha
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Club-winged Manakin displaying at Milpe
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Cinereous Harrier male at Antisana volcano
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Antisana volcano
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Rufous-banded Owl at San Isidro
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Velvet-purple Coronet at Mindo Loma |
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'San Isidro' Owl
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Highland Motmot
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Leaders:
Tom Hince (Canada), Galo Real (Ecuador). Although Paul Pratt was not an official leader he accompanied the group and was a tremendous asset.
Participants:
Marlene Prentice, Marc Croteau and Patricia Harper, Alan and Karen Batke, Tom and Billie McDavitt, Marylou Mellon, Bob Cermak (substituting for Caroline Staddon).
Summary:
With a group total of 402 species and many exceptional rarities, the trip was an outstanding success. Despite the challenges of rain, landslides and swollen rivers, we forged on, managing to find good birding opportunities at every site visited. What sets this trip apart was certainly the exceptional number of rare birds, many of which were seen extremely well (scope views for many!!). Participants showed great flexibility in dealing with the weather challenges and a minor itinerary change due to a lodge that was not open. I look forward to seeing you all again soon, wherever birders gather.
A list of some of the top birds of the trip:
Black-breasted Puffleg (perched male – a globally endangered species)
White-faced Nunbird (scope views)
Moss-backed Tanager (scope views on two occasions)
Choco Trogon (scope views of a male)
Scaled Fruiteater (two different individuals at Angel Paz)
Dark-backed Wood Quail (four birds at ten feet for over five minutes)
Giant Antpitta (Maria, Maria… venga, venga, venga…)
Purple-chested Hummingbird (perched male)
Purple-throated Fruitcrow (scope views of male and female)
Yellow-collared Chlorophonia (male in scope)
Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe (three at Papallacta, seen on ground, heard and seen flying)
Black-billed Mountain Toucan (scope views)
San Isidro Mystery Owl (scope views)
Rufous-banded Owl (scope views)
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta (stunning close views)
Orange-breasted Falcon (scope views for ten minutes)
Masked Mountain Tanager (scope views of two for five minutes)
Golden-collared Toucanet (scope views for ten minutes)
Olivaceous Piha (scope views for some)
Cinereous Harrier (stunning views at close range of hunting female)
Andean Condor (scope views)
Black-faced Ibis (at least forty birds seen)
Paradise Tanager (carrying nesting material!)
Narrative:
Jan 22nd: Trip begins in Quito
This evening at 6 pm the group met in the lobby of the Quito Sheraton for introductions. Many of the group had already met each other on pretrip non-birding excursions in the city or flights enroute to Ecuador. Everyone had arrived at least a day early. The only travel mishap was delayed luggage arrival for Marlene, Marc and Patricia, who were all on an American flight from Toronto that was delayed and then the connection in Miami was rushed so luggage didn’t make the connection.
We all moved to the hotel restaurant for dinner. After some drinks and a briefing we all enjoyed a fine meal before retiring to bed in anticipation of an early start the following morning.
Jan 23rd: Yanacocha, Mindo Loma and arrival at Septimo Paraiso
This morning the group met at 6 am for the buffet breakfast at the hotel. At 6:30 am our Ecuadorian guide, Galo Real, and our driver Luis, arrived with the bus. Check out went reasonably smoothly and shortly before 7 am we were pulling away from the Sheraton. We climbed slowly up to the Jocotoco Foundation reserve at Yanacocha. The morning was spent walking a fairly level wide track through the reserve. We turned around at the last set of hummingbird feeders about 2.5 km from the trailhead. Highlights of the walk included an incredible perched male Black-breasted Puffleg (a lifer for both Paul and Tom), both Sapphire-vented and Golden-breasted Pufflegs, Great Sapphirewing, Buff-winged Starfrontlets, several Sword-billed Hummingbirds, Golden-crowned Tanagers, Hooded and Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers, two Powerful Woodpeckers, three species of flowerpiercers, a seen Rufous Antpitta, and some nice mixed flocks with good numbers of Rufous Wrens, Rufous-naped Brushfinches and Blue-backed Conebills. We returned to the parking area shortly after noon and descended towards the old Nono-mindo road before taking lunch at the roadside. After lunch we walked downslope along the roadside picking up Azaras Spinetail, Black-crested Warbler and several other additions. As we descended the Nono-Mindo road into the valley light rain began to fall. We arrived in Tandayapa village around 4:30 pm and continued directly to Mindo Loma reserve arriving there around 5pm. We spent an exciting hour at Mindo Loma sheltered from the rain in the canopy observation platform where we enjoyed great views of hummers and tanagers. Highlights included several Empress Brilliants, many Violet-tailed Sylphs, many Buff-tailed Coronets, both Green-fronted and Fawn-breasted Brilliants, many Velvet-purple Coronets, Brown Inca, Rufous-tailed hummingbird, Andean Emerald, several stunning Black-chinned Mountain Tanagers and a Spotted Woodcreeper. Everyone loved this place and the cameras were clicking away the whole time! It was also a comfortable bathroom and coffee break. At 6 pm we departed and headed directly to our lodge at Septimo Paraiso. After unpacking and getting into our rooms we met again at 7 pm for dinner and to do the bird list. Everyone headed to bed early after a great first day.
Jan 24th: Angel Paz antpittas morning, Mirador Los Blancos rest lunch & early pm
A memorable day that started early. After a short night, the group rallied at 4 am for a light breakfast of fruit, rolls and coffee. Then we boarded the bus by 4:40 am and headed for Angel Paz refuge. Light rain was falling (though it had been heavier at night). We turned onto the winding and challenging road to the refuge in total darkness. Our driver Luis negotiated the tortuous corners, descents and ascents, forded a swollen stream and maneuvered across a narrow bridge before arriving at the parking area. We met Angel and after a short bathroom break we all headed down the trail complete with rain gear, rubber boots and flashlights. The descent in darkness was a bit of fun due to the steep and muddy trails, but we eventually arrived at the cock of the rock lek viewpoint as it was beginning to get light. We all squeezed into the shelter. Over the next hour we managed to get great views of up to four or five male Cock of the rocks displaying and calling below us. From here Angel took us up to a roost site for Rufous-bellied Nighthawk which we all eventually viewed in the scope (and then later with binocs). Our next target was Golden-headed Quetzal. The narrow trails, rain and high trees made this one a challenge but eventually we all had reasonable views. Now we returned to the antpitta viewing station a little higher up the trail system. Just as we arrived Angel spotted a White-faced Nunbird, a stroke of great luck, and certainly what would be one of the most difficult birds of the trip. After some tense moments we all got scope views. Angel and his brother Rodrigo worked to bring us (literally with the help of some worm bait!) four Dark-backed Wood Quail and eventually Maria the Giant Anpitta (we had spectacular views of both these species). While we waited a Slaty-backed Nightingale Thrush sang from close by and a gorgeous Crimson-mantled Woodpecker was seen by most. With this fantastic haul of birds in hand we began the return journey for breakfast. On the way back upslope we had several encounters with Scaled Fruiteater and after some challenging moments all the group got to see yet another tough bird. To keep this mornings walk in perspective, Tom got one lifer and Paul got three!!! As we exited the forest we enjoyed the hummer feeders at the base of the passionfruit farm. Some of the highlights were both male and female Booted Racket-tail, male Gorgeted Sunangel and female Purple-throated Woodstar. We returned to the parking area around 10:30 am and Angels family prepared a fine breakfast of Bolones, Empanadas, fresh fruit, coffee and hot chocolate. While we ate, we added Chestnut-collared Swifts, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, Olive-crowned Yellowthroat, Yellow-faced Grassquit, and best of all good views of a female Wedge-billed Hummingbird (often difficult because it does not attend feeders). There were also two small groups of birders who shared the trail with us morning. One of them was a Welsh couple who were doing a world big year, attempting to find 4000 species in one year. They were already nearing the 1000 species total for the year! We left Angel Paz and made our way to our next stop at Mirador Rio Blancos – a restaurant in the town of Los Blancos. The site is well known because of its hummingbird and fruit feeders. We spent from noon until 3 pm at this site, enjoying a fine lunch and some fantastic birding and photo opportunities. The feeders held nine species of tanagers: Palm, Blue-gray, Silver-throated, Golden, White-lined, Flame-faced and Blue-necked Tanagers and both Orange-bellied and Thick-billed Euphonias. Other highlights included superb views of Pale-mandibled Aracari, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Black-winged Saltator at the fruit, Masked Water Tyrant on the driveway (!), and Long-billed Starthroat, White-whiskered Hermit, Green Thorntail (male and female), Green-crowned Woodnymph among the many hummers. We pulled ourselves away from here around 3 pm and drove directly back to Septimo, arriving around 3:30 pm. The rest of the afternoon was free. We met again at 6 pm to the checklist and then had dinner at 6:30 pm. Tonight the group got a chance to catch up on sleep after a long but fantastic day of birding!
Jan 25th: Y of Mindo at dawn, Milpe road for rest of day.
Breakfast this morning was at 5:30 pm with a 6 pm departure for the Y of Mindo. We spent about two hours at the Y watching a steady procession of birds come in to dine on the moths. Highlights of the birding at the Y this morning included Strong-billed, Spotted and Montane Woodcreepers, oodles of Blue-winged Mountain Tanagers, Tricolored and Chestnut-capped Brushfinch (the latter only seen briefly by a few), Three-striped Warbler, Uniform Treehunter, Sickle-winged Guan (again only seen by a few), Golden-crowned and Dusky-capped Flycatchers, Red-faced Spinetails and Sepia Brown Wrens. Other birds of note included a single male Wedge-billed Hummingbird. We were lucky this morning because the rain which had fallen nearly continuously for the past two days (actually forty two according to the lodge manager!) had ceased. We headed south along the highway to Milpe road and spent the balance of the day there. Most of the day was dry or misty with several periods of light rain to keep us honest. We started at the Milpe reserve parking area where we took a restroom break and then walked the road north. Highights of the walk included Choco and Chestnut-mandibled Toucans (great views of perched birds), Roadside Hawk (again great views), White-thighed Swallows, Swallow Tanagers (up to six birds spotted by Bob), Moss-backed Tanager (scope views of two different birds, the first of which was spotted by Mary Llou), Rufous-throated Tanager, Choco Toucan male, up to three gorgeous Purple-crowned Fairys, a Yellow-collared Chlorophonia for some, a pair of Blue-fronted Parrotlets, an Ornate Flycatcher on the nest (a moss ball on the face of a bare trunk!), a juvenile Short-tailed Hawk (a difficult ID), multiple Swallow-tailed Kites, fantastic scope views of Lineated Woodpeckers, and loads of other species. The good weather continued until we turned around and returned to the Milpe reserve headquarters around 11 am. Here we took a short walk to the Club-winged Manakin lek and before the rains hit we managed to all get decent views of the manakin, plus Choco Warbler, Ruddy Pigeon, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper and several others. The rain drove the group back to the large shelter at the highpoint on the manakin trail. Here we split into the group that went with Galo back for lunch and the group that went with Paul and Tom back to the lek now that the rain was slowing. Back at the lek we obtained superb views of displaying males, plus Pale-vented Thrush, great views of Rufous-throated Tanager, a pair of Slaty Antwrens and a female Guayaquil Woodpecker at point blank range. After a good box lunch we boarded the bus and worked our way back down the road north. The rest of the afternoon was spent driving and birding along the road where we continued to steadily add new species including Bronze-winged Parrot (great scope views), Scarlet and White Tanager (Tom only), Boat-billed Flycatcher, Band-backed Wren, Plumbeous Kite, White-throated Crake (heard only) and Squirrel Cuckoo (several). We returned to the lodge by 5:30 pm. Checklist tonight was at 6:30pm with dinner at 7 pm. Another great day with a total species count of about 120 species for the group including heard birds.
Jan 26th: Rio Silanche
Up early this morning for a 4:30 am hot beverage and then packed and on the bus by 5 pm. We pulled out and made a brief stop at the Y to search yet again for Black and white owl (again it was too wet). Alan managed to retrieve his walking stick left the morning before. We drove directly to the Rio Silanche reserve with rain continuing to fall the entire drive. When we turned onto the only sideroad to the reserve, we eventually arrived at a very deep fast flowing creek which had flooded the road. Galo tested the depth and it was clearly too deep for the bus even without charting the deepest portions. Luis had the challenge of reversing nearly a kilometer up hill in the rain on a tortuous and soft shouldered gravel road. After consulting with other vehicles and a nearby home owner we learned there was no other route to the reserve. By now it was 7 am so we decided to head back to Puerto Maldonado for a pit stop and to regroup. While some folks took relief we birded the edges of the gas station in pouring rain. Paul found a Great Antshrike and a Pacific Hornero, while several Dull-colored Grassquits and two Band-backed Wrens rounded out the sightings here. We returned to the beginning of the Rio Silanche entrance road and began birding the remnant forest patches along the main road. We bumped into a couple from Toronto who were doing the same thing. Highlights of the hour plus we spent on the road (including breakfast) were both Black-winged and Buff-throated Saltators, Rufous-tailed Jacamar (well spotted by Bob), Golden-hooded Tanager, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Lesser Seedfinch and a perched Ruddy Pigeon. Eventually we negotiated a narrow passage in the road between two steep embankments and then the birding began to really pick up. Right away we got onto both female and male White-bearded Manakins (scope views for some), two Red-rumped Woodpeckers (a lifer for Galo), and at the bottom of the hill a great mixed species flock. The flock contained several Dot-winged Antwrens, Lesser Greenlets, Olivaceous Piculets, Little Cuckoos, Black and White Seedeater male, male Purple-chested Hummingbird, Golden Olive Woodpecker and more. From here we boarded the bus and continued directly to the top of the hill before the flooded river. We let Luis know we would walk down to the bottom and check it out, and if it was feasible we would call him on the radio (saving him the possibility of backing up the hill again!). Right away on our walk we got great scope views of three Maroon-tailed Parakeets. Just after this a truck came up and let us know that it was safe to cross the river now as it had receded quite a bit. We radioed Luis and he picked us up right away. Once at the creek there were a few tense moments when water came in the front of the bus but now it had finished raining and the water was clearly lower. We made it across and headed directly to Rio Silanche. At the reserve we headed first to the bathrooms for a break and then climbed the tower. It was now too late though and we only tallied Black Vulture, Swallow-tailed Kite, a pair of Short-tailed Hawks and several Gray-rumped Swifts. We worked our way down the tower and headed out the main trail. We spent the next two hours walking the trail before lunch. Highlights of the walk included Purple-throated Fruitcrow (three including both male and female), Collared Trogon (male), Black-throated Trogon (male, and later female), Broad-billed Motmot, Buff-rumped Warbler, Purple-crowned Fairy (three), Dusky-faced Tanager (a small but noisy group), White-flanked Antwren (male and female) and Chestnut-backed Antbird (responded to tape but not seen by all). We also heard a very close Black-headed Antthrush. Shortly before 1pm Luis radioed that there was a large dark cloud on the horizon so we headed back to the parking area directly. Here we took a well deserved beverage and lunch break before returning to the other half of the trail (because there was no dark cloud when we returned!!). Along the trail highlights included Scarlet-browed Tanager male (seen by only a few), Plain-brown Woodcreeper, One-colored Becards, and Slaty-capped Flycatcher. Once back to the parking area we spent a bit of time with a nearby mixed species flock including Guira Tanager and Cinnamon Becard. From here we headed back towards Mindo and our lodge. Not far along the trail Paul spotted a bird that looked like Plushcap. The range was wrong and it turned out to be Tawny-crested Tanager male! This same flock contained other good birds including White-whiskered Puffbird, Slaty-capped Shrike Vireo and Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher. From here we headed back towards the main road. Most amazing was seeing a dozen workers with Machetes heading away from the bridge that had worried us earlier. This group of men were trying to place boards so they could pass over the river below which was swollen with the huge quantity of rain that had fallen in the past few days. Most amazing was the five foot wide bridge that they had put in place in just a few hours when we returned!!! It surely says something about the importance of community in life. From here we drove almost directly back to the lodge except a small break for cokes and chocolate. There we enjoyed a fine dinner of chicken before retiring after yet another wonderful (and LUCKY) day!!
Jan 27th: Bellavista Road to Quito
This morning we were up at 5:30am for breakfast with luggage ready. Everyone was in the bus and we were pulling out of Septimo Paraiso at 6 am. Then we made a brief stop at the Y of Mindo to search for the Black and White Owl (which was heard on the Septimo grounds in early am). Birds of note observed in early morning including Uniform Treehunter and Short-tailed Nighthawk. We took the old road to Bellavista. It was raining steadily though by the time we reached the turn off for the research station road it had slowed. Our walk here was hampered by the return of the rain. We did add a nice group of Green and Black Fruiteaters, Russet-crowned Warbler, heard Plate-billed Mountain Toucan and very close heard Ocellated Tapaculo. We returned to the bus and made our way down slope to Tony and Barbara Nunnerys home, arriving around 10 am. We spent several hours here enjoying coffee and some nice conversation with both Tony and Barbara. In addition to the intimate views of many hummers, we added White-winged Brush Finch, White-sided Flowerpiercer, superb scope views of Plate-billed Mountain Toucan, a roosting Common Potoo, several Western Emeralds and Green Violetear. Our plans to continue down the valley were stopped by a large landslide that had taken part of Tony and Barbaras property and over thirty large trees. The slide completely blocked the road and Tony guessed it would take days before it would be open. After taking lunch along the road at higher elevation, we opted to head directly back to Quito in case there were more slides on this road. Indeed we noted two new small slides since we had descended! Fortunately we made it to the main paved road and then headed pretty much directly to Quito arriving at the Sheraton at 4:30 pm. We met again at 6 pm for the nightly checklist tally and then dinner. The visit to Tony and Barbaras home was clearly the highlight of the day. It is encouraging to see the superb work they have accomplished.
Jan 28th: Quito to Papallacta to Guango to San Isidro
We were up for the 6 am buffet breakfast at the Sheraton. Lius and Galo arrived at 6:30 am and we checked out shortly after 6:30 am. Head directly to an area half way up to Papallacta pass. Here we spent about an hour and a half birding along a short road. Highlights included perched Carunculated Caracara (before the fog rolled in), Red-crested Cotinga (stunning views at close range), several Black-tailed and one Green-tailed Trainbearers, a single Giant Hummingbird, Blue and Yellow Tanager (both male and female), Andean Siskin, White-crested Elaenia, Tufted Tit-tyrant, Cinereous Conebill, Rusty Flowerpiercer and Plain-colored Seedeater. We headed upslope with our next stop at much higher altitude, and with a view of a distant trout farm and ponds below. Here we added Tawny Antpitta (brief views for some), Viridian Metaltail, Paramo Ground Tyrant, Variable Hawk, Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, Aplomado Falcon, a pair of Andean Teal and Bar-winged Cinclodes. At our next stop we added scope views of a distant Andean Tit Spinetail. At the pass we stopped briefly as Galo found a Tawny Antpitta that was scopable and we all got good views. Also here were our first Plumbeous Sierra Finch and another good look at Bar-winged Cinclodes. The weather so far had been extremely good with mild temps, light winds and only misty clouds hanging over the peaks. We decided to ascend directly to the microwave tower at 4300 meters. Here we stopped to search for two target birds: Stout-billed Cinclodes and Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe. Patricia and Billie stayed on the low trail and found the cinclodes, some folks opted to pass due to the high altitude, while others pushed on to the high ridge above. Paul spotted not one, but three seedsnipe and five of the group managed to get excellent views of them before they flew. Tom (McDavitt) forlornly noted he only managed to get a GA view (going away). We returned to the bus and descended as it began to sleet and the wind gusted. A little lower elevation we stopped at a protected slope and had good scope views of male (and for some female as well) Ecuadorean Hillstar, a simply stunning hummingbird. After this we headed downslope directly and arrived at Guango Lodge at 2pm for lunch. After checking out the great hummer feeders (where we added Tourmaline Sunangels, Chestnut-breasted Coronets, one Glowing Puffleg, many Long-tailed Sylphs, several White-bellied Woodstars and at least two Sword-billed Hummingbirds), we ate a superb hot lunch. We spent fifteen more minutes after our meal enjoying the feeders before another bus and birding group arrived. Then we headed onto a trail that descended to a bridge overlooking the river. On this walk we added Slaty Brush Finch and Capped Conebill and at the bridge Torrent Tyrannulet. Walking downhill added several Hooded Mountain Tanagers and a single Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager. From here we boarded the bus and made just two more stops before reaching San Isidro around 5:30 pm. The first was at a wide point in the river where Galo quickly found a family of two adult and two juvenile Torrent Ducks! We checked into our rooms and took a break before doing the checklist at 6:30 pm and then enjoying a wonderful dinner beginning shortly after 7 pm. Tonight we did not look for the mystery owl due to the heavy rain. In short, another great day of birding!
Jan 29th: San Isidro
We met this morning at 5:50 am at the parking lot on the lodge grounds. Light rain was falling (as it would most of the morning). No sign of the owl, but at least five Rufous-bellied Nighthawks hawked for food around the lights and several also vocalized. As it began to get light we moved to the light by the restaurant. We stayed here until shortly after 7 am. Highlights of our watch at the light included a male Crested Quetzal, Subtropical Caciques, Russet-backed Oropendolas, two White-chested Swifts, Pearled Treerunner, and Black-billed Peppershrike. The rain began to fall more heavily around the appointed antpitta feeding time and there was no response from either antpitta. We headed to the restaurant around 7:45 am for breakfast. After this we returned to our rooms briefly and then met at the bus. While waiting a spectacular pair of Masked Trogons appeared and we all got incredible close views before boarding the bus. We worked our way along the road while the rain continued to fall. At several points the rain let up and several good birds were found. At our first major stop there were two Roadside Hawks and one Plain-breasted Hawk perched up for excellent scope views. Bob spotted a pair of White-capped Parrots at the same stop and we all got good scope views of these as well. Farther along the road a stop revealed several Broad-winged Hawks, a pair of Green and Black Fruiteaters, and a distant but clear scope view of a Black-billed Mountain Toucan for everyone. We turned around at the small bridge after a short but soggy walk across the bridge. On the way back it cleared and we again tried to walk and bird. Again this was abandoned after the rain started increasing once more. Back at the lodge we checked out the hummer feeders and added good views of Bronzy Inca and both Green and Sparkling Violetears. We met at 1 pm for lunch at the lodge restaurant. After lunch we met at the bus again, and our old friend the Masked Trogon was still hanging in there. Some folks also obtained brief views of a Highland Motmot. We walked along the road and enjoyed the drier conditions. This also attracted large numbers of butterflies clustering on the ground (mostly on dung!). The walk was not that productive until near the end when Bob again spotted an Emerald Toucanet perched up. Scope views were excellent and prolonged. From here along the road we began to run into an excellent flock of birds. Among them were at least eight Saffron-crowned Tanagers, one Black-capped Tanager, four Beryl-spangled Tanagers, one male Summer Tanager, Masked Flowerpiercer, Pearled Treerunner, Montane Woodcreeper, half a dozen Spectacled Whitestarts, several Smoke-colored Pewees and others. A Long-tailed Antbird also vocalized nearby. We pulled ourselves away as it was now nearly 4 pm. We returned to the lodge shortly after and then Galo took the group to search for the antpittas again. This time no success again, even though the conditions were good. There was some concern that a photographer who had stayed at the lodge several days previously had been using flash (which is strictly not allowed). Regardless there wasn’t a whiff of either antpitta. Some of the folks then met at the roof of the Mirador for birding and drinks. It was relaxing scoping the distant treetops for raptors. Today was a little slower day but we still got some excellent birds in the end. Galo topped off the day by interrupting super with a radio call that he had the San Isidro Mystery Owl. So we abandoned our seats and were soon enjoying scope views of this stunning bird! A great triumph to end the day.
Jan 30th: Guacamayos to San Isidro
Up early for a 5:30 am sit down breakfast and on the bus right away. We left around 6:15 am and headed directly to Guacamayos trail. Of course, it was misty and raining when we arrived around 7 am. We split into two groups with Galo birding downslope along the road with Luis and the bus following, and Tom and Paul heading along the actual trail with Marlene, Marylou and Bob. The heavy rain and mist kept totals down for both groups though there were some moments of victory in the rain. Among them were Red-billed Parrots for the road crew, and a large feeding flock with a Golden-headed Quetzal for the trail crew. At around 10 am we joined up at the bus at the trailhead and decided we had had enough of the rain. Heading downslope back towards Cosanga the rain began to ease up and we dropped below the clouds and mist. In the valley we added of first two of ten Torrent Ducks at the Cosanga bridge. We then headed down the old Baeza shortcut road and walk downhill for the rest of the morning. This turned out to be the ‘Golden" road as we added Golden-eared Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, Golden-faced Tyrannulet and Golden-collared Honeycreeper! Other additions included Yellow-browed Sparrow. We returned to the lodge around 12:40 pm and met for lunch at 1 pm. After lunch finished (around 2 pm), participants were given a break before our afternoon outing for antpittas which was scheduled for 4:30 pm. During this time some folks poked around the grounds and added some new birds including two Rufous-crested Tanagers (Patricia and Mark). We met Galo at 4:30 pm and he soon had the Chestnut-crowned Antpitta (actually two) performing very well. Our next stop was the White-bellied. He was more wary and only about four people got to see him as he decided not to come in to feed, though he approached and called from point blank range. After the antpitta a Rufous-crowned Tody Flycatcher was a highlight for about half the group before we headed to the Mirador roof to scan before doing the list at 6 pm and supper at 6:30 pm. After supper there was still more excitement to come as Tom and Paul found a Rufous-banded Owl by the lights, which most of the group dragged themselves out of bed to see! The group total including heard birds rose to an impressive 325 species today!
Jan 31st: Loreto Road to Archidona and Hakuna Matata Lodge
An early start this morning with everyone packed up and at the bus by 4:45 am. A quick check of the lights failed to produce the Rufous-banded Owl so we headed downslope directly to Loreto Road. We arrived at the beginning of the road shortly after 6 am with no rain but heavy overcast conditions. The first priority was bathroom break and box breakfast. Then the birding began in earnest as we walked the first few kms of the road for several hours. Highlights of the morning birding included Golden-collared Toucanet (scope views), Paradise Tanagers (some carrying nesting material), Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers (three together on a bare snag), Violaceous Jays (noisy group of four seen well), a Wire-crested Thorntail (Paul and Bob only), male Fiery-throated Fruiteater (seen by Tom and Paul and heard only by others), male and female Purple Honeycreepers (well seen at fruiting tree), Scaled Pigeons (several perched in scope), at least twenty Magpie Tanagers, several Red-headed Barbets (well spotted by Bob), Many-banded Aracari, superb open views of a male Lined Antshrike (in scope!), a female Blackish Antbird, a group of four Masked Tityras, several Cliff Flycatchers and a perched group of Olivaceous Siskins. There was also a memorable moment when Luis moved the bus while the ladies were seeking refuge behind it for a restroom break! Everyone took the adventure quite well. On our way to lunch we encountered the highlight of the day. We stopped at a cliff to search for Orange-breasted Falcon. Tom soon heard the scolding of one of the falcons and then they started to scream out and back from the high forested slope above. We thought we would have to settle for this distant view but Paul made a fantastic spot and soon we all had the falcon in the scope. We had superb views of this rare raptor for nearly ten minutes! We continued to a small restaurant where we ate our box lunches and drank cold cokes. After continuing on a short distance further we turned around and began to make our way back on Loreto Road so we could get to Archedona and our lodge at a reasonable hour. We descended the rough road towards Tena and eventually arrived in Archedona around 4 pm. We waited at a gasoline station for the owner of the lodge because the bus could not cross a narrow swing bridge on the road to the lodge! While we waited we added our first Short-tailed Swifts and a single flyby Black Caracara. When he arrived with his vehicle and another taxi we transferred all the luggage and all the group (minus Luis who stayed in Archedona with the bus for the night) to the lodge. It was a tight and rough ride but well worth it when we arrived. Hakuna Matata is a gem of a lodge with nice rooms and gorgeous grounds. The service and meals are excellent and they have a wonderful bar and swimming pool area. After getting into our rooms we met at 5 pm and walked along a track through farmland and secondary forest. New birds added here included Chestnut-eared Aracari, Blue-headed Parrot, Cobalt-winged Parakeet and Spot-breasted Woodpecker. We returned to the lodge bar and watched the hummer feeder adding Fork-tailed Woodnymph and Glittering-throated Emerald. Everyone enjoyed the comfortable bar and restaurant. After the list we enjoyed a wonderful dinner with impeccable service. After dinner most folks headed for bed but Paul, Tom, Bob and Alan went frog hunting with local guide Octavio. While on this adventure they tallied three or four species of frogs, plus a tarantula and a heard Tropical Screech-Owl. This concluded another fantastic day with a remarkable forty five new birds!
Feb 1st: Hakuna Matata to Termas de Papallacta
The group met this morning at 6 am this morning with (Big) Tom and Billie passing on the pre breakfast birding. We walked down the entrance road and returned to the restaurant for an 8 am breakfast. Highlights of the morning walk included Pauraque (heard from cabins before walk), Opal-rumped Tanager (perched in treetop, scope views), Caqueta Seedeater (male, scope views), Neotropical Palm Swift (over school grounds), Blackish Antbird (responded to tape briefly), Gray-chinned Hermit (on lek) and Piratic Flycatcher (scope views). After a wonderful breakfast we packed up and while waiting to transfer Patricia and Marc added a Tawny-bellied Hermit to the group list. Shortly after 9 am the taxis arrived (though two had trouble negotiating the last steep stretch to the parking area!). This time we transferred in three taxis so there was a bit more room. Tom and Galo opted to travel in the back of the third pickup/taxi. This proved to be a bit of an adventure as they were tossed about on the bumpy road. We arrived back at the gas station and met Luis shortly after 9:30 am. While waiting for the luggage to be transferred a Black Hawk Eagle soared overhead. By now it was getting very hot and we stopped in Archedona for cold coke and sprite and to stock up on snacks. The now famous green snack bucket replenished, we headed upslope towards clouds and cooler weather. Our first stop was below Guacamayos where we added Rufous-breasted Flycatcher and the rare Olivaceous Piha. We stopped at the trailhead at the pass and had our box lunch here. Todays sandwiches were carefully wrapped in leaves, which made it easy to dispose of our wrappers. While we ate Galo found an enormous female Hercules beetle. The boys poked, carried, prodded and photographed it before leaving it in a safer place! From here we continued fairly directly to Termas de Papallacta, though we did make a few stops to search for dipper. All of these were unsuccessful though Bob spotted one on the fly when we passed a small stream. We arrived at our lodge at around 3 pm and were quickly set up in our rooms. This is a very nice facility. On the grounds we added another hummingbird to the list – Shining Sunbeam. Shortly before 3:30 pm we met at the bus again and headed upslope on a gravel road. After passing a security gate we traveled to the end of the road at a private reserve and then turned around. We spent the next two hours walking slowly downslope. Although it was slow initially we found two great groups of birds with highlights being two Masked Mountain Tanagers (stunning prolonged scope views of a pair), at least a dozen Black-backed Bush Tanagers, four Black-chested Mountain Tanagers, two Red-crested Cotingas, and a distant Carunculated Caracara (scope views). Scanning of the nearby ridgelines added four or five Variable Hawks, three Black-chested Buzzard Eagles and one American Kestrel. We returned to the lodge around 5:30 pm and just as we pulled up a Shining Sunbeam put on a great show, allowing us to finally see the rainbow of colours on its rump and upper tail. Again we had a 6:30 pm checklist tally with dinner at 7 pm. When finished the day with the list at 387 species including heard birds, including a staggering 52 species of hummingbirds. The clear sky tonight provided dramatic star gazing and this was enhanced with the lightning storm along a nearby ridge top.
Feb 2nd: Termas de Papallacta to Antisana to Quito
This morning we were all at the bus at 6 am sharp with our luggage. Some took a quick instant coffee break but otherwise it was on the bus in the cold but clear morning air and off we went. In the distance we could see the ice covered peak of Antisana, our destination for our last day of birding. We drove for about an hour and a half to the town of Pifo where we took a restroom break at a gas station. Today was the first day of Carnival (a huge national holiday) so despite some searching we could not find another real coffee fix. We continued another 90 minutes until we reached first security gate of Antisana (a private reserve). A short distance after this gate and a large mine area (where they are harvesting volcanic rock) we took our box breakfast. Then we birded down the road in the damp and chilly morning air. Tom decided it was time to move on after 30 minutes of this and to head for higher ground. This proved to be a good plan. After about 20 minutes we began to emerge from the fog and dampness and the hillsides were bathed in a toasty sunlight. Our first stop to view Black-winged Ground Dove also added Plain-colored Seedeaters, several Carunculated Caracaras (a bird that would be common today) and best of all superb views of a hunting Cinereous Harrier. A pair of Aplomado Falcons and two American Kestrels were also seen. From here we continued almost non stop until we were in the central valley where it was clear and we had a breathtaking view of the snow and ice covered peak of Antisana. It was a spectacular sight. Here we added dozens more Caracaras wandering around the paramo, plus great views of several flocks of the endangered Black-faced Ibis, Paramo Pipit and about fifty Andean Gulls. From here we headed next towards the lake with one brief but important stop. It was initiated for Andean Lapwing which we managed to get in the scope but then Paul spotted a distant soaring Andean Condor and the lapwing was soon forgotten! It took some effort but everyone got on the condor and then we continued to the lake. Here we spent several hours checking out waterbirds and having our lunch (which was considerably better than breakfast). Highlights included Andean Teal, Silvery Grebes, Andean Ruddy Ducks, both Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs, Blue-winged teal and for Galo and Paul several Yellow-billed Pintails (NOT added to the group list!). Our return trip to Quito added a Black-billed Shrike Tyrant bringing the grand total for the group to 402 species including 25 species which were heard only. In addition, we had a fantastic list of rarities. We said our fond farewells to Galo and Luis who had taken such good care of us for the past twelve days and then enjoyed a final dinner together.
(for a complete species list please email Tom at peleetom@netcore.ca)
TOM'S HOME PAGE SOUTH AFRICA Sept/Oct 2008 OAXACA March 2009 NORTHERN ECUADOR Feb 2009 SOUTHERN ECUADOR Jan 2009
