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Narrative and Trip List from CHURCHILL & S. Manitoba Tour June 11-19, 2005

A few photo highlights from the June 2005 tour

Ross's Gull!
Willow Ptarmigan, male	Arctic Hare (mid moult)

Highlights of June 2005 tour:

Well, there were lots... How about crippling views of ROSS'S GULL two days in a row... or YELLOW RAIL heard and SEEN by all... or scope views of BAIRD'S SPARROW and NELSON'S SHARP-TAILED SPARROW... or HARRIS'S SPARROW and LE CONTE'S SPARROWS... or prolonged views of CONNECTICUT WARBLER singing his heart out... or not one, or two, but THREE BLACK-BACKED WOODPECKERS... or a male SPRUCE GROUSE at our feet... or GRAY PARTRIDGE in the scope and at point blank range twice... or 50 plus PARASITIC and one LONG-TAILED JAEGER in a single day at Cape Merry!  These are just a few of the many highlights from the trip. Read on for more.  

Day 1: June 11

The group arrived this afternoon in Winnipeg on several different flights. Everyone was checked in by late afternoon at the Holiday Inn Airport West and we met in the lobby shortly after 6 pm for a get reacquainted/acquainted drink. This was a reunion for most of the group because all of the participants except Kevin had been on Tom’s Florida April 2004 tour. Charley and Carole West who also had been on the Florida tour were going to join us, but had to cancel due to Carole’s sudden illness. We missed them both and wish Carole a speedy recovery. After a drink we moved to the restaurant where most in the group opted for the prime rib special, complete with Yorkshire pudding. Charlene told us the story of how real Yorkshire pud used to be made. The modern method had to suffice for tonight though. Tom briefed the group on some changes in the agenda - all of which increased the amount of birding time for everyone.

Day 2: June 12

Up early and we met this morning at the van at 6 am to pack up for the first time. Tom was unsure whether or not we would have room for the cooler, but after seeing everyone’s luggage we managed to squeeze in the cooler. We were all packed by 6:12 am - a pretty fast start. Weather wise it was rather a grim start with heavy overcast and steady rain with a light wind. We drove west out Portage to the first Tim Horton’s where we grabbed coffee and a snack to go. Along the way to Oak Hammock we added a few common species such as FRANKLIN’S GULLS and WESTERN MEADOWLARK in the rain. The most notable sighting before the marsh was a pair of breeding plumage CATTLE EGRETS along the side of 67 in a ditch. We were able to approach one egret very closely and this allowed us to see the bright soft parts colour and fuschia facial skin.

Oak Hammock is a Ducks Unlimited wetland and it proved to be quite productive despite the rain, and as we drove the roads near the centre we added many ducks, YELLOW-HEADED BLACKBIRDS and four species of grebes (HORNED, RED-NECKED, EARED and WESTERN). Next we risked driving along the gravel road north through the wet prairies. Here we picked up several SHORT-EARED OWLS as well as AMERICAN BITTERN flushed from the ditch. There were also several NORTHERN HARRIERS hunting the fields. The road was a bit rough and having the suburban was a piece of good luck. With a 15 passenger or a minivan we would have almost certainly ditched the vehicle but instead we moved along nicely in 4 wheel drive despite the heavy rain. On our return trip south, the rain had stopped. Along the road we stopped to watch a SHORT-EARED OWL and Tom heard several YELLOW RAILS calling near the road. After some deliberation it was decided we should don our rubber boots and strike out across the wet prairie trying to flush the rail. We all tucked our pants with Tom uttering warnings about wood ticks. However, only Kevin would find one after our half hour plus walk.

On our first sweep we got a brief view of a LECONTE’S SPARROW but not a sniff of the rail. As we walked we heard at least a half dozen yellow rails but couldn’t get close enough to any to flush them. There was a small cloud of mosquitoes gathering around us but thankfully a steady breeze kept them manageable. After about a half hour we started to make our way back towards the car. Just then we heard a rail quite close by and slowly moved towards it. We got closer and closer and then it quieted down. After several minutes we decided to walk forward and suddenly the YELLOW RAIL flushed right next to Kevin! We all got on the bird as it flew by us within a few feet and then stayed up for several hundred feet in the air eventually dropping down near the road. The bird stayed up long enough for everyone to see it in the air with binoculars and to see all the key field marks in excellent bright overcast (it had now stopped raining).

Buoyed by this success we returned to the marsh to use the bathrooms and the restaurant. Unfortunately the latter was not open to 11 am and there were few shorebirds in the main cell with mudflats so we decided to move on and head towards Brandon. Along the way to Brandon we stopped for lunch in Stonewall (actually most had a late breakfast, though no one had the bologna and eggs!). Continuing to Brandon it began to clear up nicely and soon we were looking at mostly sunny skies and warmer temperatures.

We arrived in Brandon around 2:30 pm and checked into the Victoria Hotel. Most of us then went shopping for lunch supplies for the next day returning to the hotel to pick up Kevin who had opted for a break and Charlene who was doing her physio. We then drove south on Hwy 10 and east on 23 towards Ninette. Here we added superb views of many WESTERN GREBES close to shore including pairs courting and calling loudly nearby. We meandered down the east side of Pelican Lake adding a nice selection of birds. Highlights on this route included a GRAY PARTRIDGE standing on the road close by; WESTERN WOOD PEWEE, RUBY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD, and several vireos and warblers in the oak covered valley slopes; COOPER’S HAWK flying over the road; several VESPER and CLAY-COLOURED SPARROWS along the roadside fences and hedges and a SEDGE WREN perching for scope views for some on our way home.

We started heading north towards Brandon around 7:10 pm. Enroute we had great views of CANVASBACK and REDHEAD closeby for a great direct comparison, plus RUDDY DUCKS and our first PIED-BILLED GREBE. We arrived in Brandon around 8:30 pm and then had dinner at Applebees. We returned to the hotel around 9:45 pm which was early because we already had Yellow Rail and didn’t need to head to Douglas. It was a great start with a total of 103 species for the day and numerous highlights but best of all YELLOW RAIL!

Day 3: June 13

Another early start with the group meeting at the van at 6 am sharp with all their gear ready to pack up. Jill grabbed some ice and we packed up our picnic supplies and were on the road by 6:08 am. A minor delay was added by the checkout process which proved to be a little sluggish. Then we were on to Tim’s for hot beverages and a snack. For several this was a new part of the Canadian ‘cultural’ landscape. From here we drove directly to the south side of Whitewater Lake. It was quite windy and cool and cloudy when we reached the parking lot at the lake. However we still got a good selection of waterbirds with highlights being several WHITE-FACED IBIS, at least a dozen CATTLE EGRETS, a stunning female WILSON’S PHALAROPE, and very close WESTERN and EARED GREBES in the nearby channel. At least three LECONTE’S SPARROWS sang from the nearby field. We used the bathrooms here - not great, but passable in a moment of need!

From here we drove directly west towards the town of Lyleton. En route we spotted several UPLAND SANDPIPERS including one close bird on a post at the roadside in good light for prolonged views. By now we had become familiar with Kevin’s remarkable proficiency in photographing everything that came within a two hundred yard radius. He knocked off at least thirty frames of the sandpiper but Tom didn’t manage a single frame! We then headed for a meadow where Baird’s Sparrows had been reported. About two miles from the stake out we stopped for a brief listen and Tom heard a BAIRD’S SPARROW in the field nearby. We bailed out and Tom soon got the distant sparrow in the scope. Everyone got on the bird and got a decent view before it dropped out of sight - a great start to our prairie bird day. We continued on to a farm lane and birded along this adding several more BAIRD’S SPARROWS (five in total heard and seen), plus excellent views of GRASSHOPPER SPARROW, CHESTNUT-COLLARED LONGSPUR, SWAINSON’S HAWK, eventually good views of SPRAGUE’S PIPITS, and two SHARP-TAILED GROUSE flushed in the field as well. The Sprague’s were first seen and heard high in the sky doing their aerial flight display. Eventually we saw several in flight low over the fields nearby and the tail pattern was well seen.

We turned back towards Lyteton and Charlene soon spotted a bird of prey passing nearby. It turned out to be a FERRUGINOUS HAWK so we bailed out and enjoyed it soaring around nearby with a RED-TAILED HAWK for great direct comparison. It was odd but the two birds were soaring very close together and almost looked like they might be paired. From here we drove to a FERRUGINOUS HAWK nest which Tom knew about and we were soon scoping two hawk chicks on the stick nest nearby. No sign of the adults and because we had seen one well we moved on quickly . Our next stop was a hedgerow nearby where Tom had seen several LARK SPARROWS a week before. As soon as we got out he heard one but it never sang again and we couldn’t track it down. We did find several ORCHARD ORIOLES, plus a pair of GRAY PARTRIDGE we watched in the scope nearby.

We then drove to Coulter Park where we had a great picnic in ‘western Canada’s oldest park’. During lunch Tom decided to take a slide on the ancient play equipment and broke the slide. Kevin mourned the loss for the ‘children of Coulter’! We had a great lunch and even got some nice birds. Among the additions were two EASTERN PHOEBES and one SAY’S PHOEBE, a BLACK AND WHITE WARBLER male, a BLACK-CAPPED CHICKADEE, and a bunch of RED-EYED and WARBLING VIREOS. After lunch we continued north on side roads eventually reaching the Shiloh area around 3:30pm.

A quick stop at Douglas Marsh was abandoned due to strong winds and light rain. We then headed to Brandon for a gas and bathroom break. From here we drove north on 10 directly to Riding Mountain National Park arriving at the Mooswa Lodge in Wasagaming at 5 pm. We checked into our rooms and took a break before heading out to dinner at the golf course just before 6pm. We had a superb view from our window seat at the restaurant and it was nice to be seated early after two long days in the field and travelling. Everyone enjoyed a nice meal and some lively conversation. The hot topic tonight was health care, with the pros and cons of US and Canadian systems being bantered about. The only conclusion that we seemed to agree on was that it was a good thing we were all pretty healthy!

After dinner we drove along Hwy 19 searching for birds and mammals. In the light rain we didn’t seem much except a few white-tailed deer, and some new heard birds including both KINGLETS, and NASHVILLE WARBLER. At Whirlpool Lake we took a brief walk before the rain intensity increased. JoAnn and Jill picked up a pair of RED-NECKED GREBES on the lake and on the return journey we stopped to examine two piles of bear dung (yes, we were struggling for highlights this evening though everyone thought the place would be beautiful in better weather!). We returned to the Mooswa around 8:30 pm after another great day with highlights being "You call yourself a BAIRD’S SPARROW", WHITE-FACED IBIS, and the great selection of prairie birds.

Day 4: June 14

The crew was up and ready at 6 am but less than pleased to see that there was a steady rain falling and the skies were heavy overcast. Still we loaded into the van and headed down out of Wasagaming north onto Hwy 10. At the golf course lake pull off we did the first of many ‘drive bys’ today with RED-NECKED GREBE, COMMON LOON, RING-NECKED DUCK and a distant WESTERN GREBE. We continued to Hwy 19, turning east and driving through the steady rain. Along the way the lack of sleep and the weather situation somehow synergized into a lot of laughter. We reached the "s" curve area where solid coniferous forest surrounds the roadway. Tom got out and took a brief walk in the rain and mosquitoes while the crew waited in the safety of the van. About ten minutes later he appeared with the surprising news that he had found a male SPRUCE GROUSE. The van emptied quickly and we headed off into the forest to try and relocate the grouse. Fortunately it was exactly where he had found it. We got superb views of the male walking around on the ground at distances as close as 15 feet - a fantastic start to the day!

For the next hour we explored Hwy 19 and Whirlpool Lake adding few new birds in the steady rain. We met a group at Whirlpool who had been searching for the black-backed woodpecker without any luck. We decided it was a good time to return to town for breakfast at the bakery. This was a good idea and we all enjoyed a hearty breakfast and some good coffee. We also enjoyed a game of the ‘guess the age of the waitress/waiter’. In this case the young lady turned out to be 22 years young. After this we drove north towards Lake Audy even though the road into the lake was closed. For much of this endeavour the rain kept us from getting out, but we did manage several productive stops in breaks in the rain with highlights including TENNESSEE, BLACKBURNIAN, ORANGE-CROWNED, NASHVILLE, YELLOW-RUMPED, CHESTNUT-SIDED and CONNECTICUT WARBLERS, both KINGLETS, ORANGE-CROWNED WARBLER, SWAINSON’S THRUSHES, LINCOLN’S, SWAMP and WHITE-THROATED SPARROWS, DARK-EYED JUNCO, COMMON GOLDENEYE and ALDER AND YELLOW-BELLIED FLYCATCHERS.

We continued again onto Hwy 19 stopping at Whirlpool Lake once more. On the way in we added a close MOURNING WARBLER male which responded to pishing. At the lake parking lot an OLIVE-SIDED FLYCATCHER sang from the treetops, a WESTERN WOOD PEWEE was seen and heard and then the rain came again. We drove out and east on 19 and we continued to the eastern park exit/entrance the vegetation changed to deciduous scrub and forest dominated by trembling aspen. We eventually dropped off the ‘mountain’ and down to the entrance. Along this road we added a heard GOLDEN-WINGED, plus WILSON’S, BLACK-THROATED GREEN and MAGNOLIA WARBLERS. On our return trip we added HERMIT THRUSH and VEERY and at Whirlpool Lake for the third time we picked up SEDGE WREN and BROWN CREEPER (both heard) plus PURPLE FINCH (a male in the top of a tree singing). By the time we worked our way all the way west back to Hwy 10 it was after 4pm so we decided to pack it in for a while and take a breather before dinner. We arrived back at the lodge around 4:15 pm and then rallied at 5:30 pm for dinner at TJ McCoys in Wasagaming. Here we had another good dinner with most opting for pasta, while Tom stuck to his steak routine. Again we played guess the waiter’s age. This time Andrew was 22 going on 23 in just a week.

After dinner Jill passed on an evening drive, hexing us as she left so we wouldn’t see a moose or any of her wish list species. Our evening drive took us out towards the Lake Audy road. It was a beautiful still evening with no rain and overcast skies. Along the road we called in birds at several stops including BLUE-HEADED VIREOS, RED-BREASTED NUTHATCH, TENNESSEE and BLACKBURNIAN WARBERS, SWAMP SPARROW, and GRAY JAY (doing a Northern Goshawk call!!!). On Clear Lake we added a BEAVER and a great view of two COMMON LOONS in full breeding plumage. At our last stop Tom heard a boreal chickadee but it couldn’t be coaxed into view. We returned to the lodge around 9 pm. Despite the weather we persevered and had an excellent variety of birds including 18 species of warblers and SPRUCE GROUSE!

Day 5: June 15

A very early start this morning with everyone packed up and at the car by 5:30 am. It was simply a spectacular morning, which for Tom recalls the line from one of his favourite songs: "life should be fragrant - from rooftop to basement". On our way to our first stop we enjoyed a sign of the great things ahead - an ELK right beside the main highway. We stopped in a gorgeous boreal forest bog and pond by the Audy Lake turnoff. The sun was rising, the air was still, cool and clear, and in the misty morning the world was coming to life. Song surrounded us - common snipes winnowing, pileated woodpeckers drumming, sedge wrens chortling, yellow-rumps and Tennessees and Nashvilles all warbling, both kinglets and a loon completing the chorus all around us. It was one of life’s lucky moments that is so simple and magical all at once.

As we took it all in a new woodpecker drummed in the distance. Gene was soon playing the drumming tape and a half minute later in came a male BLACK-BACKED WOODPECKER! He perched up high in a dead spruce and then flew over our heads twice drumming each time he stopped. As we were celebrating this success Tom heard a BOREAL CHICKADEE singing from nearby. After a short chase we tracked the chickadee down right beside the road in good light. He provided great views while we could hear another chickadee behind us. Before we left this great spot we added PINE SISKIN and a displaying SOLITARY SANDPIPER and heard several GRAY JAYS.

Our next target was Connecticut warbler. We made several stops along the north shore road without any luck and then turned back heading east out Hwy 19. Along the way we made some unsuccessful attempts for three-toed woodpecker. No luck with this but we did get another ELK, plus two BLACK BEARS (one cinnamon and one young black), and drum roll please.... a MOOSE for Jill. Even better at a nice aspen stand we had a great view of a male CONNECTICUT WARBLER singing his heart out right over the road. Other new birds as we exited the park along Hwy 19 heading east were OSPREY, YELLOW-BELLIED SAPSUCKER (great view of a male), ROSE-BREASTED GROSBEAK (heard only) and a MERLIN.

We then drove south to Neepawa where we gassed up and ate breakfast around 10 am. Tom washed the layers of mud off the suburban now that we were on pavement making the vehicle hard to recognize! We then drove to the Holiday Inn in Winnipeg arriving around 12:25 pm. Check in went quickly though it was a challenge to organize all our optics rich carry on luggage so that it would fit into the small aircraft for the flight to Churchill. Still we managed to make it all squeeze in with a bit of creativity. They did make us prioritize our checked luggage making several of us more than a little bit uneasy given the unpredictable weather in Churchill. Still our flight left on time and actually arrived about fifteen minutes early.

It was beautiful and warm in Churchill - around 19 C and sunny. This caused Tom to be quite concerned about what the insect situation might be. We would soon find out! The rental company met us with a 15 passenger van at the airport. On our way into town a light phase PARASITIC JAEGER flew across the road in front of us. Then we drove directly to the Tundra Inn and checked in to our rooms and then met at the van to do a quick run to the liquor store and the grocery store for fruit, water and trail mix. Next stop was Gypsies where we had supper. Our young waiter entertained us with stories of snowmobiling and northern lights in the long winters of Churchill. It didn’t seem that romantic and appealing but he clearly liked it here year round.

After supper we headed out towards Akudlik Pond and Goose Creek Road for several hours of birding. Highlights this evening included a breeding plumage AMERICAN GOLDEN PLOVER and great looks at SHOVELERS, GREEN-WINGED TEAL and AMERICAN WIGEON in the early evening light (with Kevin getting good pics and Tom taking pics of nothing because he had no memory card in his camera!). Farther down the road we stopped at the Nodwell trail where we had great views of a singing male PINE GROSBEAK in a tree top. Near the Bilendukes feeder we took time to scope the NORTHERN SHRIKE adult on a nest that Tom had found the week before. The bird was hunkered down but it did peek up enough to see the head well in the scope. At the feeder we added more PINE GROSBEAKS plus WHITE-CROWNED SPARROWS and JUNCOES. A single OSPREY carrying a small fish and a NORTHERN HARRIER hunting over the ponds were nice finds. At the weir we spent quite a bit of time working over the gulls and terns. Highlights here included lots of BONAPARTE’S GULLS; both LESSER and GREATER SCAUP; BLACK SCOTERS close and SURF SCOTERS way out; male COMMON MERGANSERS; numbers of SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHERS, LESSER YELLOWLEGS and HUDSONIAN GODWITS, a single adult MEW GULL over the rapids (seen by Tom only); a nice close adult LITTLE GULL feeding along the weir within a few hundred feet, and a pair of COMMON LOONS. Farther down Goose creek we tallied many more dowitchers, yellowlegs and godwits and then headed back towards the hotel as it was now after 9:30 pm and getting cool and windy. Back at the shrike nest the adult NORTHERN SHRIKE was perched up near the nest in full view. Our last additions for the day were a pair of TUNDRA SWANS in flight and a pair of LONG-TAILED DUCKS right next to the car.

We arrived back at the Tundra Inn at 10 pm after a great day of birding. The combination of Riding Mountain in the morning and Churchill in the evening brought the list tally to over 120 species for the day with highlights being BLACK-BACKED WOODPECKER, BOREAL CHICKADEE, CONNECTICUT WARBLER, great MAMMALS, LITTLE GULL, NORTHERN SHRIKE and PINE GROSBEAK.

Day 6: June 16

Up at 6 am and then over to the Granary Ponds and the docks and then Fort Merry. At the Granary Ponds we had great close up views of RED-NECKED PHALAROPES, LEAST SANDPIPER, ARCTIC TERN and several ducks including GREATER SCAUP and AMERICAN WIGEON. We also had scope views of STILT SANDPIPERS in breeding plumage. At the docks we had more close views of COMMON EIDERS, LONG-TAILED DUCKS and SURF SCOTERS plus many BONAPARTE’S GULLS. It was a gorgeous morning at Cape Merry with mostly sunny skies, warm temperatures and a light wind. Amazingly there were few bugs present despite the favourable conditions. We scanned the rivermouth from the smooth whale back granite rocks near the cannon. Eventually we made our way down to the rocks at the mouth of the river close to shore. Here we spent quite a bit of time scoping the many COMMON EIDERS, LONG-TAILED DUCKS and SURF, WHITE-WINGED and BLACK SCOTERS. We had several COMMON LOONS before we finally got decent views of both PACIFIC and RED-THROATED LOONS in full breeding plumage. One RED-THROATED LOON popped into view only a few hundred metres away and steadily swam closer and closer! We had stunning views of this bird as it swam right into the little cove next to us and then sat and preened only about 50 metres away. All of us gorged ourselves on scope views of this immaculate bird.

Another highlight here was a light phase PARASITIC JAEGER which chased the terns and BONAPARTE’S GULLS back and forth in front of us and landed on some close offshore rocks on several occasions - allowed great scope views. On our way back to breakfast we stopped at the opposite side of the Granary Ponds where those who had missed scope views of the STILT SANDPIPER were able to catch up. Our next stop was a late but well deserved hot breakfast stop at Gypsies Bakery. After breakfast we headed east out of town to the ponds at Akudlik. Here we spent some time scoping the many ARCTIC TERNS. This produced good views of at least six adult LITTLE GULLS which were in the north end of the main pond, in a site suitable for breeding. Also here were more RED-NECKED PHALAROPES and several puddle ducks. We continued on to Isabelle Lake and the wreck of ‘Miss Piggy’. Our quarry here was the Ross’s Gull as Isabelle was one of the few lakes with any ice left (and it only had a small skiff at one end). We did find some beautiful flowers blooming along the shore, and took a number of shoreline scenics of the ice and rocks in Hudson Bay. From here we continued east on Launch road making a quick check of the garbage dump for gulls. As with the rest of the days this spring it was quiet, though we did add SEMIPALMATED PLOVER, more STILT SANDPIPERS and HUDSONIAN GODWITS. After this we returned to the Tundra Inn for a nap and then the plan was to rally to head out again at 3:30 pm.

This plan was interrupted for the very best possible reason. Shortly after 3pm Tom got a frantic call from his old friend Bruce Di Labio about the ROSS’S GULL. It was sitting at the gravel bar only a half a kilometre from the hotel right now! So Tom ran to everyone’s room banging on the doors and telling them to get to the van ASAP because the Ross’s Gull was being seen. Everyone was in the van in record time and we were on our way to the gull in just minutes. We arrived at the gravel bar and after a few frantic moments we got everyone on the ROSS’S GULL! It took several brief flights but we were able to get spectacular views of it through the scope perched on the beach below for at least twenty minutes!! Both Tom and Kevin took quite a few photos of the bird mostly in flight - several of which turned out quite well.

We all thanked Bruce for his help before he and Kevin left us with the bird. As we watched the bird it was clear that this was likely a different Ross’s from the bird seen earlier in the week. This bird was very well marked with a bold necklace (noticeably thicker on the nape) and pinkish white underparts. As we watched it we noted that on several occasions it did a head dip/tail skywards display - on both occasions this display appeared to be directed at a first summer BONAPARTE’S GULL. Now there is a hybrid nightmare to consider!

Eventually the Ross’s moved off into the water and we too decided it was time to move on. From here we went down Goose Creek Road. Our first stop was at the Nodwell trail to search for Bohemian Waxwing. After a brief run around in the woods we track one down in the tree tops. Several get scope views of the BOHEMIAN WAXWING while everyone at least gets it in their binocs before the bird moves off! Our second stop was the Bilenduke’s feeder where we managed to pick up several PINE GROSBEAKS, and a FOX SPARROW among the REDPOLLS, GRAY JAYS and other sparrows. From here we continued to Goose Creek Village and Jim Turr’s feeder to look for Harris’s Sparrow. Tom knocked on the door to ask permission and Jim kindly welcomed us into his yard. While we waited a good selection of birds attended the feeder, and the HARRIS’S SPARROW sang repeatedly from the woodpile nearby. However after about half an hour of being chewed by blackflies and mosquitoes the crew thinned out and eventually we decided to abandon the watch.

We checked the weir once more adding little except both RED-BREASTED and COMMON MERGANSERS. Farther down Hydro Road (CR 30) we added our first AMERICAN BLACK DUCKS of the trip, and some nice views of HUDSONIAN GODWITS. At around 5:40 pm we turned around and headed back to Gypsies where we were meeting Bruce and Kevin for dinner and drinks. We had a great dinner and Tom broke down and had a drink to celebrate the ROSS’S GULL. Bruce pointed out it was 30 years since Tom and he had seen the legendary ROSS’S on the seawall in Newburyport, Massachusetts (an event often referred to as the "Woodstock" of North American birding). Over dinner everyone checked out Tom’s gull photos on his laptop and we were all able to relive that fantastic bird.

After dinner we headed out to Cape Merry to enjoy a gorgeous evening with spectacular views of SCOTERS, EIDERS and WHALES plus fly by PARASITIC JAEGER and our first BLACK TERNS for Churchill spotted by Bruce. One of the most memorable "Churchill moments" this evening was the turning tide at the river mouth with the close mixed flocks of EIDERS and SCOTERS and the BELUGAS surfacing amid the birds - an incredible sight! After this we dragged ourselves back to the hotel for some well deserved sleep. The highlight of the day today was a no brainer: ROSS’S GULL! But the RED-THROATED LOON at Cape Merry at point blank range would have also been a no brainer as well - had we not seen the Ross’s!

Day 7: June 17

Another 6 am start and this time everyone had breakfast and coffee before we left the Tundra Inn. Today we were birding the farthest reaches of Churchill’s abbreviated road system - the Twin Lakes area. Our first stop was again at the dump area. Again we had few gulls (actually none!) but we did add our first SANDHILL CRANE flying in the distance - a new bird for Kevin. Farther along Launch Road we stopped near Camp Nanuk. It was another beautiful, mild sunny morning. This actually caused us some concern as the bug numbers were starting to build and with the warmth it was likely that Twin Lakes would be really buggy. At Nanuk we got scope views of an AMERICAN GOLDEN PLOVER and WHIMBREL. Farther down the road at the Northern Studies Centre we picked up both male and female WILLOW PTARMIGAN within photo range right beside the road. The male stayed right on the road for several minutes providing great views and even called several times. On the road south of the centre we finally got views of a perched AMERICAN TREE SPARROW. Tom pointed out a BUFFLEHEAD male on a lake and nearby he pointed to an old woodpecker hole in the top of a small dead spruce which was where the female was nesting. Along the open tundra just north of Twin Lakes we made several stops and eventually all got scope views of a male SMITH’S LONGSPUR. At least five birds seen but it took a while for everyone to get a decent view of a male in the scope - but eventually we did. Also here while we were waiting out the longspur we spotted our first CARIBOU - a single male. Nearby we spotted an adult RED-TAILED HAWK soaring over the tundra - a scarce bird here. HUDSONIAN GODWITS and SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHERS were all around displaying and landing in treetops in the tundra.

At the gravel ridge we heard and got brief views of GRAY-CHEEKED THRUSH, BLACKPOLL and ORANGE-CROWNED WARBLERS and only heard GRAY JAY and FOX SPARROW. A short walk along a track known as "Cook Street" was pleasant but did not produce much. Amazingly there were virtually no bugs despite the warm temperatures and clear blue skies! This was to be the case for the entire morning. We next birded the burn on the southwest side of the lakes. Here we checked out a COMMON REDPOLL nest right beside the track. The bird sat tight as we photographed it from the window. Working the west end of the burn we added a displaying SOLITARY SANDPIPER then two HOARY REDPOLLS. Best of all at the end of the trail Gene hears and sees a woodpecker fly in. It turns out to be a female BLACK-BACKED WOODPECKER and we get splendid views in short trees and even on the ground. While Tom is retrieving his camera another BLACK-BACKED flies in and they both move north across the nearby pond out of sight. Returning down the track we add HAIRY WOODPECKER and a NORTHERN SHRIKE chasing an AMERICAN ROBIN which promptly escapes. From here we drove back to Cook Street for one more try for American Three-toed but no luck. Kevin managed to get some super shots of a male PINE GROSBEAK feeding on the ground close by. We drove pretty much directly back to the hotel arriving around 1:10 pm for lunch at Gypsies.

At 2 pm we went back to hotel for a break. Tom and Kevin headed to Cape Merry while the crew took a shopping and nap break. At the Cape, Kevin spotted the male HARLEQUIN DUCK on the rocks and both he and Tom get a great view of a NORTHERN GOSHAWK flying within 50 feet of them and being mobbed by BONAPARTE’S and other gulls. On the way out, Bruce tells Tom and Kevin that the Ross’s Gull is back. So Tom and Kevin stop at the gravel bar and the ROSS’S GULL is indeed still there. Leaving Kevin, Tom races back to pick up the crew because it is now 4 pm. Soon we are all getting great views of the ROSS’S GULL. This time we have to walk down the shore to the far rocks because the gull has moved after the flock was dispersed by a hunting PARASITIC JAEGER. We note once again that the gull is courting and following a first summer BONAPARTE’S GULL! After about twenty minutes the gull moves off to the west and we head to the Nodwell trail. There we made another attempt to get better views of the BOHEMIAN WAXWING. The best we could do was a bird in flight seen by everyone and a calling bird nearby that we couldn’t track down (we saw the bird well the day before but wanted more). On to Jim Turrs feeder where we again watch for the Harris’s but no luck. Eventually we are driven off because the bugs are getting bad. On to the weir where there is little happening in dramatic contrast to a week earlier. On to supper at Gypsies where we bump into Bruce and Kevin yet again. After supper we go to Cape Merry. Here we get nice views of many COMMON GOLDENEYE, SURF and WHITE-WINGED SCOTERS, LONG-TAILED DUCKS, COMMON EIDERS, many HERRING, RING-BILLED and BONAPARTE’S GULLS, plus a few PARASITIC JAEGERS. No sign of the Harlequin despite checking every bird at least twice!

Another beautiful evening at the Cape. Virtually no bugs because of the wind off the water (mostly westeries) and it is warm enough that we are not frozen! On our way out we add a first summer THAYER’S GULL in flight which we all eventually get to see well in the scope. Then to Akudlik marshes to listen for mosquitoes, errrr I mean sharp-tailed sparrows. No luck with the bird but we did find plenty of mosquitoes! Jill points out that she is thinking of patenting a new cosmetic therapy "mosquitox" instead of "botox". She figures that strategically placed bites will have the same affect and here there is an endless supply! Back to the Tundra shortly after 10 pm.

Day 8: June 18

Up this morning a bit later with a civilized 6:30 am start. We were actually all in the car and pulling out by 6:28 am - a record! Our first stop this morning is Jim Turrs feeder in Goose Creek Village. We wait here patiently and while we wait a good assortment of birds keep us busy. Among these is a HOARY REDPOLL which is a catchup bird for Jill. The bugs are much more tolerable this morning or maybe we are just getting used to the abuse! After about forty minutes the adult HARRIS’S SPARROW appears and we all get great looks as he prances around on the ground feeding for several minutes. Next we head out over to the weir for another check for ducks, gulls and shorebirds. This allows us a comparison of LESSER and GREATER SCAUP and our first HORNED GREBE for Churchill. After this we head north looking for sharp-tailed sparrows in several locations with not a squeak heard from any of the great looking sites on Goose Creek Road. As we head north we add our first and only BARN SWALLOW in the Churchill area - just by the railroad crossing. Eventually we turn east onto Scrap metal dump road and continue east a few hundred yards to some suitable habitat. Tom thinks the crew is beginning to wonder about this effort when he hears a NELSON’S SHARP-TAILED SPARROW singing in the distance. Everyone bails out and while we are waiting for the far bird to sing, another sounds off only about 25 metres away. We are in luck because after a few minutes he flies low over the wet sedges and plops down to a new song perch. This time he is in view! After a few frantic seconds of trying to zero in on the right bump in the homogeneous sea of grass, Tom gets him in the scope. Everyone gets a good scope view before he has had enough and drops out of sight. Yippee!

From here we head back to town for a late breakfast. Not mentioned in the past few days is a growing dependency upon the home baked cookies of Gypsies for snacks. Tom in particular seems to have a ‘problem’ with oatmeal raisin. Gene and Charlene buy more cookies to feed the leader’s addiction (we are going to need help getting in and out of the van soon!). After yet another meal we are off to Cape Merry again, this time in pursuit of the HARLEQUIN DUCK that Kevin had scooped us on the day before. Again we meander down to the shoreline, though today it takes a bit more coaxing. Its hard to believe but we once more have spectacular weather at the Cape - sunny skies, warm temperatures, light winds and no bugs! Right away we start seeing a steady passage of PARASITIC JAEGERS heading out into the bay. They are all coming out of the Churchill River either close to the near or far shore, with some taking an opportunistic swipe at a bonie or a tern and then continuing on their way north. In all we tally 28 PARASITICS in just over an hour. In the early afternoon Tom and Bruce will return and double that tally to a healthy 56 PARASITICS for the day!

While we are scanning the mass of ducks and other birds, we spot the male HARLEQUIN DUCK close to shore. We all get great scope views of this handsome duck. Eventually he hauls himself up onto a close offshore rock with a group of EIDERS and BONAPARTE’S GULLS. While watching him on the rocks, we see that he is actually colour banded, with a standard band on his left leg and a broader white band with some numbers on his right leg! Tom and Jill decide to move down to a small promontory where there are two other birders scoping to see if the band is readable, but its not. They are from Saskatchewan and just like us they are enthralled with the energy of the river mouth. After a few minutes they head back to town and as they are leaving they yell to us that the tide is coming in! Good thing they did, because in a few more minutes we would have been getting wet to get to shore! This was not the last of our good luck. Tom said that we should start heading back soon because we had to be back to the van by 1:20 pm so he could make an appointment with the rental agency staff. Just as everyone was starting back, an adult LONG-TAILED JAEGER flew past at close range. Thanks to Kevin’s strong lungs we were all able to get on the bird before it continued north out of sight.

On our return to the hotel we make a quick stop at the gravel bar where we get a distant view of two RUDDY TURNSTONES. Because of the pressing meeting we decide to return later but they have flown the coop. We then return to the hotel and have our regular afternoon break so folks can shop or nap. Tom returns to the Cape with Bruce and pushes up the jaeger tally. In the late afternoon we made a brief trip out to Goose Creek Road to search for Le Conte’s Sparrow. We do find the right spot because the YELLOW RAIL is calling, as is the COMMON YELLOWTHROAT, SEDGE WREN and several NELSON’S SHARP-TAILED SPARROWS. Unfortunately no Le Conte’s though. We have our last supper with Bruce who takes the train out this evening to Thompson. For our last evening we again return to Cape Merry. All the regulars keep us enthralled, plus we hear a WILLOW PTARMIGAN and get great close up views of several AMERICAN PIPITS carrying food. To cap off the day, we track down a SHORT-EARED OWL that two ladies from South Dakota had found. We get great views in the evening light before returning to the hotel to pack and sleep.

Day 9: June 19

For our last morning in Churchill we again met at the van at 6 am. This morning we head east out of town turning south onto a road that accesses the flats of the Churchill River. We haved our best views of SANDHILL CRANES, plus several AMERICAN BLACK DUCKS, a fly over LAPLAND LONGSPUR (heard and seen distantly by one person only), and six TUNDRA SWANS. We continue to Goose Creek Road and to the sedge meadow where we had heard the YELLOW RAIL the evening before. Our target here was LECONTE’S SPARROW. It was a cool partially cloudy morning with temperatures around 6 C and a light north wind. Although this was a little chilly it really helped to keep the bugs down from the levels present the day before. As soon as we got out of the car we could hear tons of song all around us. It was a great chorus with YELLOW RAIL, NELSON’S SHARP-TAILED SPARROW, FOX SPARROW, AMERICAN TREE SPARROW, ALDER FLYCATCHER, AMERICAN BITTERN, TENNESSEE WARBLER, NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH, BLACKPOLL WARBLER, YELLOW WARBLER, COMMON YELLOWTHROAT, SWAMP SPARROW, RUSTY BLACKBIRD, LESSER YELLOWLEGS and SORA all sounding off around us. The RUSTY BLACKBIRD popped into view so we could all get a good view. Tom noted how much this species seems to have declined in the last few decades. As we were about to leave we saw the AMERICAN BITTERN fly into the open. Tom got the scope on the bittern and we got to watch the full pumping song and display - quite a sight. The bittern even showed off the white ruff of feathers that is normally well concealed. We continued on to the end of Goose Creek Road checking out the shorebirds and waterfowl. At the end of the road at the pumphouse we took a scan of the lake and then called it quits. We retraced our steps and were back in Churchill at the hotel shortly after 8 am. After emptying the van we headed to our rooms to pack up for the morning flight. Everyone met at the van with their luggage packed around 8:40 am and we packed up and checked out of the Tundra Inn. Our next stop was the Seaport Hotel Restaurant which was the only place open for breakfast on Sunday. Here we had a decent breakfast and then headed for the airport checking in around 9:45 am.

At the airport Tom and Charlene distributed the remaining snacks and beverages to lighten our carry on load. The flight left a few minutes late and arrived in Winnipeg about 1:25 pm about ten minutes late. Unfortunately some goodbyes were missed at the airport but everyone hopefully arrived home safe and sound. It was a great group and a fantastic, fun filled week together - and I look forward to repeating it again soon!

Cheers and Good Birding!

    Tom